What Exposure Mode do you use?

[scorpioh]

I am a TAv mode user. Feel its the only mode worth using.

[melvinchen]

It depends on what is the setting that you need to control.

For example, many people use Aperture-priority, or what you may call Av mode, cause they need control of aperture to ensure they know the depth-of-field in every shot. For someone controlling his depth-of-field, Shutter priority has no relevance.

Likewise, for someone shooting panning shots or action, then aperture priority will be irrelevant.

For certain stage/event scenes with complicated lighting, many seasoned shooters will use full manual, cause no matter how "smart" your matrix/evaluative metering is, it is still often fooled in complicated scenarios.

One of my mentors use only full-manual, regardless of what he's shooting, cause he was a super old-school film+full manual camera photojournalist...he was used to it, but that came with 20+ years of experience.

For 'emergencies' or new beginners, they may use P (program) mode.

If Tv mode is the only one you feel 'worth using' for you, either your subjects are extremely limited or perhaps you have yet to grasp an understanding of basic photography theories.

[scorpioh]

Originally Posted by melvinchen It depends on what is the setting that you need to control. For example, many people use Aperture-priority, or what you may call Av mode, cause they need control of aperture to ensure they know the depth-of-field in every shot. For someone controlling his depth-of-field, Shutter priority has no relevance. Likewise, for someone shooting panning shots or action, then aperture priority will be irrelevant. For certain stage/event scenes with complicated lighting, many seasoned shooters will use full manual, cause no matter how "smart" your matrix/evaluative metering is, it is still often fooled in complicated scenarios. One of my mentors use only full-manual, regardless of what he's shooting, cause he was a super old-school film+full manual camera photojournalist...he was used to it, but that came with 20+ years of experience. For 'emergencies' or new beginners, they may use P (program) mode. If Tv mode is the only one you feel 'worth using' for you, either your subjects are extremely limited or perhaps you have yet to grasp an understanding of basic photography theories.

Sorry ah, i mean TAv mode. You might have read wrongly.

[adiknaim]

mostly Av.. if nt, M.... Tv only for long exposures...

[scorpioh]

Originally Posted by melvinchen It depends on what is the setting that you need to control. For example, many people use Aperture-priority, or what you may call Av mode, cause they need control of aperture to ensure they know the depth-of-field in every shot. For someone controlling his depth-of-field, Shutter priority has no relevance. Likewise, for someone shooting panning shots or action, then aperture priority will be irrelevant. For certain stage/event scenes with complicated lighting, many seasoned shooters will use full manual, cause no matter how "smart" your matrix/evaluative metering is, it is still often fooled in complicated scenarios. One of my mentors use only full-manual, regardless of what he's shooting, cause he was a super old-school film+full manual camera photojournalist...he was used to it, but that came with 20+ years of experience. For 'emergencies' or new beginners, they may use P (program) mode. If Tv mode is the only one you feel 'worth using' for you, either your subjects are extremely limited or perhaps you have yet to grasp an understanding of basic photography theories.

No offences again. TAv mode gives you full control over aperture and shutter. There is seldom one scene where shutter or aperture is irrelevant. Suppose you are talking about wanting shallow dof say for portrait. The shutter is just as impt for freezing motion. Even for pan shots, you need to make sure you have a deep enough dof.

For complicated lightings, manual is not really the way to go. In fact, people who use manual are usually limited by manual lenses. Most likely they will still need to use the green button and compensate from there. Alot of times its about compensating from the test shot. Of cos, if it's out of the compensation scale, you can go manual.

[ishou80]

I'm still learning about the functions but at the moment I've been using manual as my shifu tell me to do that...haha

[scorpioh]

Originally Posted by ishou80 I'm still learning about the functions but at the moment I've been using manual as my shifu tell me to do that...haha

You use the green button?

[skypacker]

Av or Tv, in that order.
For night exposures, M.

[ishou80]

Not really...so for my shots will take awhile to get the right exposure but I roughly know wat is the DOF I wanted now (still exploring) so I'll try to get the contrast right then will shot...as I was told this will give me better control and will benefit myself more.

[Rachmawan]

Originally Posted by scorpioh You use the green button?

Well, I usually using Manual mode, or sometimes I use P mode if I'm too lazy for changing the setting.

I always use the green button when the situation between my shoots really force me to do some drastic setting with my camera. I found it really helpfull...

[k9sparx]

I personally use manual for all situations. It forces me to identify the light intensity and adjust the settings to suit the light. It may cause me to lose a few shots in the initial stage but I believe as I practice more, I will get use to it. It is also better for me as a beginner to learn.

[night86mare]

manual all the time, unless doing street, then av mode

[longko]

I'm M mode all the time, only time I use Av is under the sun. But then my photography is 80-90% flash

[creampuff]

I used to shoot in Manual for a long time. Now I use Aperture Priority and use the +/- exposure compensation to tweak exposure as I can do this pretty fast. Manual mode is good if light conditions don't change very much but like all manual settings, you either need to rely on one's prior estimation to act as an initial reference point. In this regard the Green Button (Hyper Manual) is useful to obtain the camera's appropriate exposure of aperture/shutter speed combination as a starting point.

Pentax's Hyper Program mode is probably the most under-rated as one can shift from Programmed AE to Shutter or Aperture Priority at the turn of either the front or rear e-dial. Unfortunately I don't get to use it enough but it can be very fast and versatile to use.

To me the two modes that I find least useful is Sensitivity Priority (SV) and Shutter & Aperture Priority (TAv). Firstly I don't like to shift my shooting ISO very much, so for SV mode, that means the camera controls the aperture/shutter speed combo to a set ISO, which is really very similar to Programmed AE anyway. TAv mode is a big no-no as the last thing I want is the camera playing around with the ISO to a set combination of aperture and shutter speed.

[scorpioh]

The way I shoot in TAv mode is first fix the aperture, next, press the green button to switch to the appropriate shutter while maintaining ISO100. I'll may then adjust the shutter as appropriately if it is too slow (based on inverse focal length rule or motion freezing), moving up the ISO if necessary. I'll cycle through these steps if the initial aperture does not allow a proper exposure (over or under, the aperture and shutter values would blink).

[creampuff]

Originally Posted by scorpioh No offences again. TAv mode gives you full control over aperture and shutter. There is seldom one scene where shutter or aperture is irrelevant. Suppose you are talking about wanting shallow dof say for portrait. The shutter is just as impt for freezing motion. Even for pan shots, you need to make sure you have a deep enough dof.

If you want full control over your exposure, Manual is the way to go, not TAv imo. That's because in Manual, you determine the variables of shutter speed, aperture and ISO. In TAv mode, while you do control the shutter speed and aperture combination, the camera's ISO will fluctuate according to scene brightness and you risk noisy images if the camera shifts the ISO upwards. Not a good thing. I would rather use Manual to a set ISO sensitivity.

Originally Posted by scorpioh For complicated lightings, manual is not really the way to go. In fact, people who use manual are usually limited by manual lenses. Most likely they will still need to use the green button and compensate from there. Alot of times its about compensating from the test shot. Of cos, if it's out of the compensation scale, you can go manual.

I'd disagree with you here. When things get complicated, manual is definitely the way to fall back to if the camera is unable to determine the right exposure. Shooting bracketed exposures may also be a solution.

If one happens to have older lenses, you'd have to shoot in manual mode but that's because these lenses lack the ability for auto exposure. But you don't have to have manual lenses to use Manual mode.

[alanswan]

I mostly shoot similar to Dennis.
Av with +/- to adjust.
But if I need motion blur or freeze action, I switch to Tv.
And M when I do night shots.
Maybe I should play around with TAv or practise full manual...
Have a tendency to forget to switch back modes or reset +/-....

[flowerpot]

Originally Posted by alanswan I mostly shoot similar to Dennis. Av with +/- to adjust. But if I need motion blur or freeze action, I switch to Tv. And M when I do night shots. Maybe I should play around with TAv or practise full manual... Have a tendency to forget to switch back modes or reset +/-....

depends on situation, got time to compose M, no time Av...then again most of the time no time

[fengwei]

Whatever exposure (or metering) mode should be okay as long as you are comfortable with it, and as long as it gets the job done Why our cameras provide us all these modes? That's for us to use lah

Me myself, I use M mode most time, no matter it's a manual lens or full auto lens like a DA lens. But when I'm on the road or doing street photography, I'd use Av mode mostly. When using M mode, actually you don't need to use the green button for every shot, only the first few, then turn the dial (to change speed) according to the test shots. You can get properly exposed photos very fast, in a matter of seconds.

If you are using an auto lens in M mode, you don't even need to use the green button. Just look through the viewfinder (the metering bar is clearly shown there) and turn the dial (to change speed or aperture value) so the metering isn't over or under, or you set it purposely over or under according to the scene or target. And best of all, you'd get consistent exposure afterwards, this is very good when shooting stage performance, sports, indoor photos, studio photos, or even landscapes/cityscapes or whatever you have time to take several shots

You see, actually it's much easier to shoot in M mode when you are using a full auto lens than a manual lens, 'cause you can see if it's over or under exposed very easily from the viewfinder, then just turn the dial to change speed or aperture. Give it a try, especially when you are shooting kids indoor, I'm sure you'd love it whence you know the trick

Again, no matter what mode or metering method you use, just use the one you are familiar with and most comfortable with.

Cheers and happy shooting.

[aosis]

I Use Manual or Program mode.