Incident meters - Do you use them?

[k3mistry]

hi all,

Just wondering if you folks stlll - or are using handheld incident meters for accurate exposure; be it studio or outdoor shoots. I find certain scenes (eg portraiture) tricky and good exposure is a constant struggle with my oly. Please advise. Thanks!

[Mikefellh]

The ONLY time I use an incident meter is when adjusting the intensity of studio strobes...I'll set the camera for f/8, and set the strobes to f/5.6, f/8, and f/11 using the incident meter. Of course I will check the image after setting up to see if further adjustment is necessary either via the camera or strobe settings, but I wouldn't use the meter anymore as I would be using experience and the mood I want to set for the image rather than technology.

Otherwise I'll use the cameras internal meter as a starting point and then again use my experience and what the scene is to over or under compensate...the camera's meter is NEVER the final judgement.

If you are having problems, maybe you should start with what metering mode (not to mention what camera) you are using.

Also, when you are setting your expsoure you have to decide what part of the scene to meter on...for instance if someone if someone has a white top and black pants, you'll have to look for something else in the scene to meter on that's between those two extremes of contrast.

If you haven't already check out both the camera and photo free online lessons at:
http://www.olympusdigitalschool.com/

[Oly5050]

Well I am looking to get one. But the ones I have been shown in Cathay and other shops here are all 800 dollars Sekonics. Where are the $200 Sekonics in Singapore?

[k3mistry]

Originally Posted by Mikefellh The ONLY time I use an incident meter is when adjusting the intensity of studio strobes...I'll set the camera for f/8, and set the strobes to f/5.6, f/8, and f/11 using the incident meter. Of course I will check the image after setting up to see if further adjustment is necessary either via the camera or strobe settings, but I wouldn't use the meter anymore as I would be using experience and the mood I want to set for the image rather than technology. Otherwise I'll use the cameras internal meter as a starting point and then again use my experience and what the scene is to over or under compensate...the camera's meter is NEVER the final judgement. If you are having problems, maybe you should start with what metering mode (not to mention what camera) you are using. Also, when you are setting your expsoure you have to decide what part of the scene to meter on...for instance if someone if someone has a white top and black pants, you'll have to look for something else in the scene to meter on that's between those two extremes of contrast. If you haven't already check out both the camera and photo free online lessons at: http://www.olympusdigitalschool.com/

hi, yep i have been doing some of this stuff...esp. the white top black pants part. Besisides using a meter, does a grey card work well too?

I can PP the images but i really like 'original' exposures....and consistently good exposures. And yes...the meters are not cheap.

[Mikefellh]

To me spending a bundle on a light/flash meter, especially if you are just an amateur or enthusiast is a waste of money. As I said above I only use one in the studio and only bought one because the camera doesn't have an incident feature...and for your information I only spent $50US on a used Shepherd FM1000...for me that was enough for my needs (note that this flash meter only has shutter speeds designed for flash use, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, & 1/500).

I had to laugh last summer...I was doing some night photography at a fair of a ferris wheel, and someone beside me had the $500 light meter and a $300 tripod, while I was doing it by eye and handheld...considering the compliments my pictures got they must have been as good or even better than the other guy's.

I don't know how much they would cost in your part of the world, but a decent meter to check out is the Gossen meters...the one that I used once when doing flash metering also gave me the ambient reading at the same time as the flash reading, and they are cheaper than the Seikonics (at least in North America).

And if you go looking for a meter, make sure you specify you're looking for a flash meter (if you intend to use it with flash)...all flash meters are also light meters, but not all light meters are flash meters...a flash meter is capable of measuring the short burst of light, while a light meter (without flash capability) can only read the current light level and its reading will change instantly as the light level changes (these meters typically use a meter rather than a digital display).

[egnaro]

Originally Posted by Oly5050 Well I am looking to get one. But the ones I have been shown in Cathay and other shops here are all 800 dollars Sekonics. Where are the $200 Sekonics in Singapore?

u got poison from mircocosm during the SBG outing?

[Mikefellh]

Originally Posted by k3mistry hi, yep i have been doing some of this stuff...esp. the white top black pants part.

I wished that the AEL function worked like it did on the C-700...first of all you didn't have to hold down the button (with the weight of the E-300 it's a lot of stress on the AEL button and circuit board). Second, if you did hold down the AEL button on the C-700 it would go into MEMO mode in which case you can take up to nine AEL samples which would then average the exposure...for instance if the white top gave a reading of f/11 and the black pants gave a reading of f/4, the camera might set itself to f/6.3.

[k3mistry]

hi Mikefellh, thanks for all the insights! I guess experience play a huge part...esp in averaging the exposure. Will work on that..will spend the money on lenses instead.

[aryanto]

Originally Posted by k3mistry hi all, Just wondering if you folks stlll - or are using handheld incident meters for accurate exposure; be it studio or outdoor shoots. I find certain scenes (eg portraiture) tricky and good exposure is a constant struggle with my oly. Please advise. Thanks!

One thing to meter. Another is to bracket.
If you got time to meter, may be you want to try trial and error (bracket & approximate)?

[Oly5050]

To me, the greatest function of the light meter is the ability to measure ambient light. Of course, the more experienced u are, the easier u KNOW what the right exposures u need. A good photographer definitely will do better than a poorer photographer with better equipment. But there is also no doubt that a good photographer with better equipment will do better himself/herself. In any case, I found this article enlightening.

http://www.ephotozine.com/article/Gu...ld-light-meter

Finally, seems like the Sekonic 308 is probably the cheapest around. Alan selling at $350 cash/nets, but I know internet goes for like USD 189 which works out to about $300. But a recent MO in clubsnap was going for like $280.

[k3mistry]

Originally Posted by aryanto One thing to meter. Another is to bracket. If you got time to meter, may be you want to try trial and error (bracket & approximate)?

yep did that....like good old film..should stop being lazy and get more disciplined.

[Oly5050]

got the best price for the cheapest sekonic at orient...top flr of sls. significantly better than the shops on ground floor. in fact the price was so good that it was better than the MO price just done some time ago in clubsnap. i am very pleased!!!

[aryanto]

top level shop is always better because the bottom shop has too many customer come and visit them. ;D

[microcosm]

In Singapore, Sekonics are the cheapest around. So hunt around for MO, or look around for used units at The Camera Workshop and places like that. Believe it or not, you can even find the high end Minolta flash meters for a steal at some places, so move around and look look see see... I am handicapped without my light/flash meters.