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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: East of Singapore
Posts: 189
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Hi macro expert,
I just got myself a EF100mm f2.8 macro lens. This is the 1st time I own a macro lens. Did some test shots at home with tripod mount, cable release and mirror lock up. The following are the results as I increase the apearture from f5.6 to f8, f11, f16, f22, f29 and f32. 1. The center getting sharper as i inrease the apeature from f5.6, f8, f11 and f16, After f16, the center sharpness amd contrast start to drop. 2. At the corner, the shaprness and contrast increase as I increase the apearture from f5.6 all the way to f29. Is this the normal? Is this the characteristic of a maco lens? It's seems like the peak performance of this lens is at f11 to f16. Someone says that this is called Diffraction softening due to small apertures. The DOF increases the images become softer with smaller apertures. There is a good description of what is on this Diffraction softening http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tut...hotography.htm Is this truth? Thanks |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Clementi
Posts: 10,476
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Yes it is. You've already found yourself the answer, haven't you?
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Punggol
Posts: 3,984
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Uh, not a pro or a macro-shooter, but I believe that if you're increasing the f numbers, you're in fact stopping down the aperture ie decreasing the size of the aperture hole =)
Most lenses (especially those non L lenses) have their sharpness peak at about f/8 - f/11
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 207
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Usually, after f11, you are compromising sharpness for depth of field
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Xti + grip + Really right stuff L-plate. |
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,311
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Why on earth would you want to shoot anything after f/11 knowing the perils of diffraction?
A way to combat this is to get a wider macro lens or a FF camera which is less prone to diffraction as a APS-C type. Samuel
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f/8 and be there. |
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 207
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Alot of people shoot after f11. Like I said, if you need th depth and you can compromise sharpness, then stop down
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Xti + grip + Really right stuff L-plate. |
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#7 | |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,311
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Samuel
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f/8 and be there. |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 572
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You can't do that if you need to take insects from a distance and trrying to maintain a larger DOF.
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#10 | |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New York, Singapore
Posts: 1,185
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diffraction depends on the pixel pitch of your sensor as well. APS-C cameras probably suffer from diffraction from f/11 onwards, but full-frame cameras can go up to f/16. Besides, I'd rather go for DOF than sharpness. Sharpness is over-rated for me. |
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#11 | |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,311
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For landscapes I regulary use a wide angle (18mm and beyond) on my APS-C body at f/11 and a wide angle (45-65mm) on my medium format body but now at f/16 or even f/22. That gives me the sharpness plus DOF combination. Considering that a 35mm lens on 35mm film already gives me a DOF of around 1m~infinity on f/11 or close to that, I don't see how much more DOF you need. Macro wise, I'm afraid I do not have as much experience with it, but I do keep within the "safe" limits of the lens all the time. At high magnification, sharpness is especially important as it shows up very clearly on the picture, less so with a landscape shot. Samuel
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f/8 and be there. |
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Choa Chu Kang
Posts: 166
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I do own the 100mm Canon Macro lens. I do use it often with extenders and I would say a F/11 or F/16 is a good number to play with for good dof. If dof is really an issue for u on capturing small objects, I suggest u save up and get a TS-E. It will solve most of ur dof problem.
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#13 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Choa Chu Kang
Posts: 166
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An example from my own picture gallery. Shot at f/16. Nothing very fantastic though on composition etc. Just a newbie shot I take.
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EOS 40D | 17-40 F/4L USM |
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