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| Newbies Corner The best place for those new to photography and ClubSNAP. |
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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 88
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Hi night photography experts,
I just got myself a new Canon DSLR with lense kit EFS 18-55mm, f/3.5-5.6IS. I was trying to take some candid shots in a restaurant at night. I dont want to use flash as the ambience of warm light will be lost. As such, I choose to use aperture priority and set it to max opening of f/3.5 and increase the ISO to 800, shutter speed is auto based on the aperture size for enough exposure. The ambience is there but the moving subjects in the photos are blurred since they are not posing and not keeping still. As such, what is the best way to settle this? Use a prime lens with bigger aperture of f/1.2 so that the shutter speed is increased? Last edited by stevenc; 11th April 2008 at 03:17 PM. |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: in your mind
Posts: 19,374
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if you do not want to use flash..
if you do not want to bump up the iso further (to 1600 or 3200).. which is probably understandable then yes, you will need a bigger aperture to freeze action but even then, it might not be enough, it all depends on the lighting in the restaurant then again, you can do deliberate underexposure - it dpeends on what you want to achieve. sometimes camera metering is not that accurate. |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 184
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You are taking your pictures at Aperture Priority, that is why your shutter speed is so slow and you get moving subjects. If you don't want to buy a new lens, try setting your camera to ISO auto. Then take your pictures using the manual mode, with your lowest f-stop. Try not to zoom in too much in your shots.
I think that's the best you can do with your current lens. |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: West Coast
Posts: 231
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For ur current lens, not much u can do to achieve a good exposure, either it's bright enough but lurred, or it's sharper but very dark. Can try to increase the shutter speed to get sharper images, then boost the underexposed images using PS or DPP. If die die want a nice bright shots, go for a fast lens.
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 88
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Aperture is already max at f3.5. If I were to increase the shutter speed manually, the photograph will appear dark. ISO if its increased further, the photos will appear grainy.
Anymore advice? If its use fast lens, what is a decent lens to recommend that is not too expensive? |
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#6 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,721
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#7 | |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 52
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If you find that too long though and want something wider, you'd have to fork out about $500-600 more to get either the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 or some other fast primes in the 28 to 35mm range. |
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#8 | |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sembawang
Posts: 172
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The subject with flash, will not have much noise if is well control. |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: North
Posts: 520
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if the picture still comes out well enough to be printed. bumping it up to 1600 can be an option. A noisy picture is still better then no picture...
Also u can do photoshop for underexposed pictures. Adjust the levels and u should be able to get the details back up. Try not to use iso more than 800 if u wanna choose this option. the noise will be quite clear when u up the levels. since u're a canon user i guess u love noiseless pictures...
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P&S: Sony U20, Pana-leica FZ5 SLR: Nikkor F60, Nikkor FM2, Oly E-510 |
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Northerner
Posts: 3,976
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I think u got the answers for shooting in low lighting situations.
In addition, noise can be slightly controlled with softwares such as Noise Ninja. And it is pretty effective. In certain instances, you can play noise to ur advantage in processing. Ryan |
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#11 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Ang Mo Kio
Posts: 988
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I'm no dSLR user but I'm thinking if u use shutter priority, and since it's dark enough already, the camera will definitely place the aperture at it's largest. Of course, that's the same as manual la... U just control the shutter to determine how dark you can live with. Some ambience are meant to be dark and it's not what the camera wants (which is good exposure) but what you want (which I assume, an accurate reproduction of the scene)...
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incywincyspider climbup the waterspout... |
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#12 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: AMK
Posts: 231
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I have no problems shooting with my Fuji S5 Po at ISO 3200. Most situations I do not even have to apply Noise Ninja. I believe many of the newer DSLRs, especially those launched in recent months, have very good noise control. Don't hesitate to use the highest available setting, be it 1600, 3200 or higher in the case of the latest Nikons. Someone here said noisy picture still better than no picture. It is also better than blur picture with camera shake or people moving (unless you want to capture the movement). It is also easier to remove noise than to remove camera shake. To minimise camera shake, take a deep breath and hold your breath when you press the shutter. Also, push your arms close to your body, or rest on something stable, like the table. |
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#13 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: AMK
Posts: 231
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#14 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 132
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Hi, may i know at what shutter speed is consider fast enuff to capture pple without blur? Let say at f2.8, ISO 800 or even 1600. Is 1/125 enuff?
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#15 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 339
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I think it'll still be blur if people are moving around under low lighting. Probably u'll want to set around 1/60, ISO even higher than 1600 if you really want the picture to be less blur but more grainy
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#16 | |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Northerner
Posts: 3,976
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![]() While fast enough for freezing usual human motion is one thing, being handholdable at the focal length u using is another seperate issue. Ryan |
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#17 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 11,574
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#18 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 133
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#19 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 8,282
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without flash or framing of brighter scenes,
1. underexpose to the limit of your taste 2. increase ISO to the limit of the camera's noise control and your threshold for noise 3. increase aperture size to the limit of the lens 4. shorten the focal length to the limit of your lens. i think wide angle prime may be the best option, or if you can afford, think tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 sounds good (which i will look at when my sigma 10-20mm dies) Last edited by zoossh; 24th April 2008 at 11:16 PM. |
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: North
Posts: 2,605
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Get a prime lens that has a big aperture like f1.4-f.12, boost up your ISO, and you're there!
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Canon 5D mkII|24-105mm F4 IS L|70-200mm F4 IS L|580EX|and more coming! :P |
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