4/3 budget portrait lens?

[monkeyjopaw]

Hello 4/3 masters,

my sister is planning a budget wedding (long story), and since i'm the only one in the family with an slr, she assigned me as the photographer. one of the things she is planning as a souvenir is a picture of the couple with the guests, to be printed there and then.

my current setup: E500, dual kit lenses, FL50. dilemma is, i don't think my current setup allows the nice DOF for portraits (she's also planning to get one of those professional-looking backdrops, btw).

also, since my phone recently got busted, i also need to get a hand phone. so im kinda on a tight budget.

what would you guys suggest?

[tunghk]

Actually the kit can take quite decent photo liao, especially you are not enlarging the prints. I am actually more concern about the "professional" backdrop thingy? What do you mean by that? BTW, I am no 4/3 master.. just my personnal opnion.....

[monkeyjopaw]

actually, i was worrying more about the DOF. the kit lenses can take wonderful photos.

as for the backdrop, its one of those long painted cloths. kinda like in a studio.

[schon]

Originally Posted by monkeyjopaw my current setup: E500, dual kit lenses, FL50. dilemma is, i don't think my current setup allows the nice DOF for portraits (she's also planning to get one of those professional-looking backdrops, btw). also, since my phone recently got busted, i also need to get a hand phone. so im kinda on a tight budget. what would you guys suggest?

i'd suggest reading up and shooting more to sharpen your skills. you're pretty well-equipped.

[wind30]

if you want CHEAP small DOF, the best way I think for you is buy a 2nd hand nikon/canon D70 / 350D and a 50mm f1.8 lens. That will give you slightly less DOF than the zuiko 50mm f2 and probably cheaper and easier to sell back after you have used them.

Still, I would prefer sharp pics of the 40-150mm than misfocused pics with 50mm f1.8. Shooting with thin DOF is not as simple as it seems and slight misfocusing means you lose everything, out of focused background + subject...

[olymac]

Originally Posted by wind30 ......Shooting with thin DOF is not as simple as it seems and slight misfocusing means you lose everything, out of focused background + subject...

He may not be looking for thin DOF ......

[tao]

Guys, can't you read that he already has an E-500 Dual Kit + FL-50 setup and is on a budget? What is the point of recommending another system to him?

If on a budget, the Zuiko Digital 40-150mm will do just fine for portraits, especially considering that you have the very capable FL-50 to help you as a great fill-in flash as well as a powerful bounce flash when shooting indoors. When used right, this lens already allow you good enough DOF control, i.e. zoom to 100mm at F4.0? Also, you might want to consider a good flash diffuser for your FL-50, such as the Lightsphere. I think that will net you the greatest improvement in terms of how natural your indoor flash photography turns out.

Certainly, if you can afford it, go get the 50mm F2.0 Zuiko as suggested, 2nd hand if possible to save money. It is a gem of a lens for shooting portraits that is super sharp even at 50mm and renders smooth and creamy bokeh. Well, it is more expensive than 50mm F1.8 lenses for other makes but it is weather-sealed, more well-built, can do macro, is already super sharp at F2.0 with no distortion of any kind and renders bokeh as good as other makes' 50mm F1.4 lenses.

[drakon09]

LOL, brings a whole new meaning of "reading the fine print".

One thing that you will need for the AD event is a external powerpack for your FL-50 - you will require the quick recycle time.

As these powerpacks cost quite a bit you might want to consider renting them for the day.

[tao]

Originally Posted by drakon09 One thing that you will need for the AD event is a external powerpack for your FL-50 - you will require the quick recycle time.

Hey, that is another poison!!! If one can loan such a pack, that will be superb!

Well, I covered my sister's ROM and wife's grandfather birthday with an E-500, 14-54mm, 50mm F2.0 and FL-50. I thought the setup did well with satisfactory results and I was not left wanting for the flash to recharge, unlike the FL-36 I used to have. I guess that setting my camera to ISO400 helps a lot in that respect as less flash power is needed. Just have to make sure that there are spare AA batts and CF cards for replacement.

[monkeyjopaw]

ah... good thing i have the 40-150 3.5-4.5 version. i will just have to practice, i guess.

[wind30]

Originally Posted by tao Guys, can't you read that he already has an E-500 Dual Kit + FL-50 setup and is on a budget? What is the point of recommending another system to him? If on a budget, the Zuiko Digital 40-150mm will do just fine for portraits, especially considering that you have the very capable FL-50 to help you as a great fill-in flash as well as a powerful bounce flash when shooting indoors. When used right, this lens already allow you good enough DOF control, i.e. zoom to 100mm at F4.0? Also, you might want to consider a good flash diffuser for your FL-50, such as the Lightsphere. I think that will net you the greatest improvement in terms of how natural your indoor flash photography turns out. Certainly, if you can afford it, go get the 50mm F2.0 Zuiko as suggested, 2nd hand if possible to save money. It is a gem of a lens for shooting portraits that is super sharp even at 50mm and renders smooth and creamy bokeh. Well, it is more expensive than 50mm F1.8 lenses for other makes but it is weather-sealed, more well-built, can do macro, is already super sharp at F2.0 with no distortion of any kind and renders bokeh as good as other makes' 50mm F1.4 lenses.

errr.... for someone on a budget, a 2nd hand 350D/D70 + 50mm f1.8 is more economical than a 50mm f2. By the simple fact that it is 10 times easier to buy and sell the canon 350D + 50mm f1.8 than a 50mm zuiko f2. Seriously, if you don't hold the camera + lens for long, you may even make a profit if you catch the right deals.

I have not used the 50mm zuiko but I have owned the nikon 50mm f1.4 and quite a number of lens. I find this bokeh thing over-rated, especially when you shoot wide open. If you shoot a 50mm f1.8 wide open, I think the bokeh is as good as the zuiko 50mm f2. Besides a 75mm lens is easier to use indoors than a 100mm lens. Furthermore, the 350D allows you to shoot pretty good ISO1600 pictures and MAY allow you to get by without using a flash indoors.

BTW, the focal length has NOTHING to do with DOF. If I want a half-body portrait, it does not matter whether I zoom to 100mm f/4 or 50mm f/4, the DOF is exactly the same. The only way to get thinner DOF is change your aperture, ie new lens.

[cjtune]

Originally Posted by wind30 BTW, the focal length has NOTHING to do with DOF. If I want a half-body portrait, it does not matter whether I zoom to 100mm f/4 or 50mm f/4, the DOF is exactly the same. The only way to get thinner DOF is change your aperture, ie new lens.

Actually it does. At long focal lengths, DOF is thinner. I 'snipe' a lot with my 50-200, so I know that focusing errors can be unforgiving with thin DOFs.

Besides, focal length does appear as a parameter in all online DOF calculators like this one:

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

This is not to be confused with focal distance. DOF is thinner at closer focal distances.

So, DOF is a function of (focal length, focal distance, f/number).

[tao]

Erhmmm... When using a zoom lens, DOF is controlled by BOTH the aperture and focal length, so the same applies to prime lenses of different focal length and max aperture. Thanks Cjtune for clearing that up.

Anyway, my point was, the OP should utilise his 40-150mm more, with the 50mm F2.0 being a 'luxury' option. Besides, he already has a very good flash unit, the FL-50 and switching brand means having to get another equivalent flash gun which will costs $500+.

[cjtune]

I may not be a portraitist .. but I think why some photogs want very shallow DOFs is to isolate the facial features, eg. focus on the eyes but blur away everything else - even the other features on the face - for that 'fine art' look.

But for most purposes, enough (lack of) DOF to isolate the subject's head or body from a distracting background should suffice and your 40-150 f/4.5-5.6 should be capable.

[wind30]

It is a common misunderstanding about the effect of focal length on DOF.

The idea is that when you want to frame a half body shot with 100mm, you have to stand twice the distance back compared to the 50mm. When you are twice the distance back you ended up with the SAME DOF. If you don't move back, you end up with a head shot. Use any DOF calculator to verify that.

similarly lets say you are framing a head shot with a 50mm, there is NO WAY you can zoom in and get more DOF unless you are interested only in an eye shot.

With the assumption that you want a specific kind of shot for your subject, changing focal length does not help.

Most of the time for portraits, the subject is the most impt, we have a general idea of what kind of shots we want, half body, head and shoulders, etc. By changing focal length you have to adjust you focal distance.

The main use of changing focal length is changing perspective in Portraits as it gives you very different kind of perspective for different focal length which can be very impt in Portraits too.

[wind30]

Originally Posted by cjtune But for most purposes, enough (lack of) DOF to isolate the subject's head or body from a distracting background should suffice and your 40-150 f/4.5-5.6 should be capable.

This thing that decides isolation is how far the background is to your subject and how you want to frame your subject. IT is MUCH MUCH easier to isolate a head shot (doable with your 40-150) than a full body portrait.

[monkeyjopaw]

Originally Posted by wind30 BTW, the focal length has NOTHING to do with DOF. If I want a half-body portrait, it does not matter whether I zoom to 100mm f/4 or 50mm f/4, the DOF is exactly the same. The only way to get thinner DOF is change your aperture, ie new lens.

yup, this is exactly what i was saying. i wanted to know if my current setup (ie, at 40mm f3.5) would allow me a thin enough DOF for say, a portrait, with a nice enough effect of blurring in the background.

[creampuff]

Originally Posted by wind30 ...The idea is that when you want to frame a half body shot with 100mm, you have to stand twice the distance back compared to the 50mm. When you are twice the distance back you ended up with the SAME DOF. If you don't move back, you end up with a head shot. Use any DOF calculator to verify that.

The subject may remain about the same size in the viewfinder but the perspective is quite different.

[wind30]

Originally Posted by monkeyjopaw yup, this is exactly what i was saying. i wanted to know if my current setup (ie, at 40mm f3.5) would allow me a thin enough DOF for say, a portrait, with a nice enough effect of blurring in the background.

actually you have the lens, you have the camera, I am sure you can get a friend to pose for you... why don't you test it out yourself. pleasing bokeh is a very subjective question.

Better still get your sister to the venue for a dry run. Take a few shots of her with your 40-150 lens and see how it turned out.

This was what I did when I was wondering the same question. My personal conclusion is if you wanted half body shots or head shots, the 40-150mm is ok. But I tested it outdoors as I was wondering about travel photography, different case.

[microcosm]

Realistically, you only need to sucker your sister for a good flash and bounce the lighting and you should be able to get professional results.

This is how: (you owe me coffee for this).

Set up the backdrop near the entrance of the reception area, so that people will not walk past and run away. They have to register anyway... so this is the best time to get them, and the couple are near anyway... (Common sense of course, but I thought I should put this down anyway)... but here is the tricky part...

DO NOT set up the back drop right underneath a strong downlight (those ceiling lights commonly found in hotels and function halls) even though this aid in your focusing, but it will cast ugly shadows (even when you use flash) and not to mention causing a yellow cast on your image. Set it near a decently lit area so that you minimise hunting. And mount your camera on a tripod. (Looks more pro too, and people will be more patient with you).

Remember... BOUNCE THE FLASH. Never use direct light... search the internet for set up... and place the subjects at least 1m away from the backdrop else you get ugly shadows...

Camera setting can be straight forward... set to manual. You should be fine.

Auto WB (since you are using flash)
Shutter 1/60
Aperture f5.6

Your distant to subject, use common sense... will you stop the traffic? You have to consider ding dongs who will walk into your frame... and you have to keep shooting thrice... that is no fun and frustrating for you... so set up with common sense... take these little things into consideration... considering you are not a professional photographer, you will be under a lot of stress doing this... set up the printing counter next to the backdrop... easier for everyone... especially you!

Experiment with different focal lengths to get the best results BEFORE the guests come. You will have tons of people at the set up... just grab anyone... why? Because I have no idea what backdrop are you using... paper roll, or your sis meant getting the banquet dept to build one for her... so test shots until you are confident... this minimises your stress when the actual shooting starts.

OK?

Coffee on you the next time we meet... Cheers. And have fun. Shoot in jpg, no time for editing RAW! Don't worry about complex set up like teethered shooting... just get a couple of small CF cards. The person who is helping to print will be less stressed too...

TIP : In case you are not sure about colour profiling for printer, please TEST PRINT first... and then use +-EV to compensate if the prints are coming out too dark or bright.

Happy shooting.