S3 Pro Film Simulation

[Fotophilic]

Do u guys uses it?

I was playing around with it today. Most of the landscape shots (F2) i got was like over saturated. I understand that F2 was suppose to look gd for landscape. My photos actually look better without the film simulation.

Is it with me or is it just the way the camera is? Will appreciate any advise.

[zaxh81]

Originally Posted by Fotophilic I understand that F2 was suppose to look gd for landscape.

Where you got this info from?

[chansw]

Originally Posted by Fotophilic Do u guys uses it? I was playing around with it today. Most of the landscape shots (F2) i got was like over saturated. I understand that F2 was suppose to look gd for landscape. My photos actually look better without the film simulation. Is it with me or is it just the way the camera is? Will appreciate any advise.

Same here.Just came back from Boat Q..with some night shot notice it too.Worst still the sky look very blue.I found that the KM 7D showed the true colour of the sky.Quite disappoint with the S3 result . Maybe we need to custom set the WB

[chansw]

Observed the sky to be dark in grey and the KM7D able to capture the very sky color

[madmacs]

Originally Posted by Fotophilic Do u guys uses it? I was playing around with it today. Most of the landscape shots (F2) i got was like over saturated. I understand that F2 was suppose to look gd for landscape. My photos actually look better without the film simulation. Is it with me or is it just the way the camera is? Will appreciate any advise.

i avoid using F2...the saturation is so fake. stick to F1.

[Fotophilic]

Originally Posted by zaxh81 Where you got this info from?

Hi, it's from the user manual.

[Fotophilic]

Originally Posted by madmacs i avoid using F2...the saturation is so fake. stick to F1.

Ok. I will try F1 the next time round. But isn't the F1 for portrait? Hmm... Looks like i'm not the only one with the F2 problem.

I am still happy with the S3 as it worked kinda well for me when i don use the film simulation. Exams are over so had itchy go explore the features. Nice to hear from you guys!

[madmacs]

Originally Posted by Fotophilic Ok. I will try F1 the next time round. But isn't the F1 for portrait? Hmm... Looks like i'm not the only one with the F2 problem. I am still happy with the S3 as it worked kinda well for me when i don use the film simulation. Exams are over so had itchy go explore the features. Nice to hear from you guys!

there are no hard and fast rules. some prefer to set to STD and adjust the settings themselves. i find the colors in F1 pleasing enough for me and pretty close to Fuji Provia slide film. anyway use whichever appeals to you.

btw...the F2 mode on the s5 seems ok

[Incastasman]

for me..i will use F1 or normal most of de time.. F2 tends to be abit over onde highlight..

[Azure]

F2 does give you more saturated colors. Think of it as Provia or Velvia slide film, in digital form.

And yes, it is suited for landscapes. And it is mentioned in the user manual.

BUT - may not suit everybody's taste. ........I like it, personally.

Usage-wise, do be careful. It is easy to get overblown highlights or black shadows. However, if you've got your basics (in photography) right, there shouldn't be an issue.

[photobum]

Originally Posted by Azure F2 does give you more saturated colors. Think of it as Provia or Velvia slide film, in digital form.

Provia film's color saturated meh?

[Fotophilic]

hmm... I guess maybe i'm not into film that's why when u all are talking abt it i only understand half bucket. Looks like I better try using F1 and self-settings while doing landscape. Anyway, thanks for all the input!

[Fotophilic]

Originally Posted by madmacs btw...the F2 mode on the s5 seems ok

don't make my heart go wild....

[Fotophilic]

Hi, I found some materials online that i would like to share with all. Some might had seen it b4 some may not. I guess many ppl out there using S3 or S5 maybe encountering problem with controlling the camera properly, just like me. Not totally talking about Film Simulation but more of the settings in the menu.

Source 1: http://www.radugrozescu.com/photo-te...-settings.html

Dynamic range
I use Auto most of the time, except in very high contrast situations when Wide 2 could help. If shot in RAW, all the following settings except the ISO can be altered in post processing.

White balance
Again Auto most of the time, except when I have a chance to use Custom and in Tungsten lighting when I use the appropriate setting. Custom white balance is really important in studio settings, to ensure shot to shot consistency.

Tone
Surprisingly, I found that "Hard" is the best choice for me. The "standard" and "original" are much more adapted for the images which will be post processed, but "hard" give me ready to use files.

Color
High. All the time. As with the Tone above, if the shot was properly taken, there is no need for post processing with these settings. Beware that if the white balance is wrong, high tone will make things a bit worse. But you already know that getting white balance right is the key of successfully shooting jpegs.

Sharpness
High, except for portraits where I prefer standard. I do a lot of corporate, industrial, architecture, and high sharpness is very well suited to these subjects, since the images do not need any other additional sharpening.

ISO
100 ISO when possible, but for the event shots I do not hesitate to go to 800 ISO. I like to bounce the flash a lot, and in medium to big rooms, ISO 800 is really needed. Up to 400 ISO there is virtually no visible noise, so I do a lot of available light industrial images at ISO 400.

sRGB, aRGB
I prefer sRGB, unless the client specifically asks for Adobe RGB. As most clients do not know what Adobe RGB is, I deliver sRGB just to be on the safe side.

Source 2: http://www.digitalphotographers.net/...ujis3settings/
Photo at diff settings. Beautiful lady as well.

Source 3: http://dativ.at/s3/index.html
The Dynamic Range Increase of Fuji's Finepix S3 Pro

Source 4: http://www.millhouse.nl/fujis3pro.html
Fuji S3Pro Short Field Test