Canon EOS 30D w/ grip 580EX, Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8, EF-S 10-22mm
polarisers won't work in such situations. Diffused lighting is the way to get the job done.
If you can understand these and apply it on product photography.
#1 Inverse Square Law
#2 Incident ray is equal to reflected ray
#3 The bigger the light source (relative to the size of subject), the softer the light/shadows.
you can shoot any products with minimum hardwares and still able to produce good results
sometimes, there is only 'tis much you can do...'
check tis images out...
the tip is a chrome ring, no matter how you position, it still mirrors the entire cube. And i din have space to setup my studio table, my few lights and also place to position my tilt shift lens. so in the end. i just make do with wat i have... 2 low power off shoe flash & a 50mm lens. So i only used 1 flash, hit direct at the object with f22. Use PS to edit the portion.
of course... if u have time... u can do something like tis...
seen by alot liao... just showing again... need a proper studio table, 1 light on bottom, a light meter to measure equal amount of light from top & bottom.
Anyway, LR sucks, only 1puny watermark on the corner... cmi...
Logging Off. "You have 2,631 messages stored, of a total 400 allowed." don't PM me.
one way you can do it.. if you have white flocked plexi glass, or something simular..
Support it up by chairs bricks or whatever you have to support it, put a light underneath/behind the white plexi glass, put your products ontop/infront, make sure the light underneath/behind the white plexi glass is much brighter then your product light.
Take your exposures off the product, with spot metering if you have it - its not required, check the histogram, tweak the exposure, ideally you want the backlighting to over expose the white plexi glass. and take a standard exposure with the light that is illuminating your product.
pretty simple once you get it all set up.
for the hand phone screen, cloning or healing will be a very frustrating experience...what i recommend is to fill a rectangle with the screen background colour, draw and geometrically multiply squares of the pixel size (draw one square, copy another so you have 2, flatten 2 and copy so you have 4, etc until you fill the whole screen...), slightly blur the resultant pixel pattern and add a bit of noise and the then sharpen the whole thing...then fit this new screen onto the phone and add gradients to match lighting...
for the fan, the problem with the manufactured rear portion is that it does not match the lighting that falls on the body of the fan...on the body, the center is lighter in tone and gets darker as it curves to the top and bottom, whereas in the metal rear, the centre is darker and the top and bottom is lighter...lighting must match mah...
Since you are starting out, there is no need for professional equipment. If you want a quick and cheap fix, you need the following equipment.
1) Any camera that will focus close enough, or any camera with decent resolution so you can crop.
2) An A3 piece of white paper
3) A table or chair (chair preferbly)
4) A program with curve or contrast control
How to shoot
Place the chair near a window during a cloudy day with the back facing away from the window. Place the A3 paper on the chair . Start shooting, without flash. You will want to overexpose by half stop to make things easier.
This should give u a decent picture. Fine tune in Photoshop.
An example to illustrate. Not the best, for a quick shot using my Sony Ericcson W810i handphone, it shld be adequate for web publishing. I used a table next to a window, where my aquarium sits on.
you can see the product on the table.
Last edited by marcwang; 19th March 2007 at 05:42 PM.