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Thread: Sigma 50-500 with converter

  1. #21
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    Price from fotoguide was around $1580 with GST the last time I asked in the earlier weeks of January

    Originally posted by pcman
    I have read quite a number of positive review of this Sigma 50-500, wonder what is the best price now for this lens. Plan to include this in my bag. Please advise. Thank you.

  2. #22
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    Originally posted by lazyfiddler

    Hi tom!

    Thanks for the answer. Just a bit confused here. What is the difference between the 1.4x TC and 1.6x FLM?

    BTW, how is it that u seldom use the 1.4x TC? Is it that you are getting most of your shots without the TC?
    With 1.6x FLM, you get a cropped pic but still maintain the same focal length and max aperture. With 1.4x TC, u get even longer focal length (50x1.4~500x1.4) but dropping 1 stop max aperture. On D60 if u use TC, it becomes 50x1.4x1.6~500x1.4x1.6. Normal TCs are designed to work with fast prime lens which have excellent performance and image quality, not advised to work with zooms, especially for such a huge range zoom lens as 50-500. I dun use 1.4x TC due to the fact that:

    1. I have 1.6x FLM in D60, practically long enough. When I shoot at 800mm equivalent (due to the in-camera cropping with FLM), I need proper handling of my lens with a solid tripod and sometimes cable release/mirror lockup to get sharp pix;

    2. If I use TC, my max aperture will be f8+, so D60 cannot AF. I think I heavly rely on AF, especially for moving subjects like birds. It's hard to get good composition when worrying about focusing at the same time. Well, I am the spoiled younger generation photographer u know;

    3. As mentioned, image quality drops.

    More practically, I attach an extension tube with 500mm end to shoot close-up. My major concern in nature photography for now is to get clean background. U may not believe that, I may throw a pic with sharp subject but poor background. Not because I only like to shoot close-up. If can get better background, I will try to balance with the environment as well.

    If u have difficulty in understanding all the above points, which are basically from my personally experience. U may try my setup sometime when I go out and shoot. I believe for amateur work, not very action oriented situation, 50-500 is a good alternative to the OEM lenses.
    Last edited by tomshen; 2nd February 2003 at 01:56 AM.

  3. #23
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    Originally posted by kiwitan
    Price from fotoguide was around $1580 with GST the last time I asked in the earlier weeks of January

    Thank you. Will check it out from them.

  4. #24

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    Originally posted by Jed


    It's worse that just 1 or 2 stops. By increasing your focal length by 1.4x or 2x, you need a 1.4x or 2x faster shutter speed, tripod or not. Don't make the simpleton mistake of just assuming it's just the light loss from the TC.

    Of course, if you want to stack converters then it gets even worse. Quality drops, contrast is horrible, you lose 3 stops of light AND need a three times faster shutter speed. If you've been to Sungei Buloh and stacked lenses, then look at the photographs you've taken and ask whether the pics are still good. If you think so, good for you.
    Yup, I think they're good enough for decent A4 sized prints. Have received good feedback from other photographers who think its usable (maybe not national geographic standard so):


    Wild Little Egret at Sungei Buloh, 300 f/4 + stacked converters

    Obviously it can't match the power of an AF-S II prime lens, the quality of which is clearly illustrated in members portfolio post you've put on on clubsnap.

    cheers

  5. #25
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    Like I said, if you think so, then good for you.

  6. #26

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    Originally posted by tomshen

    With 1.6x FLM, you get a cropped pic but still maintain the same focal length and max aperture. With 1.4x TC, u get even longer focal length (50x1.4~500x1.4) but dropping 1 stop max aperture. On D60 if u use TC, it becomes 50x1.4x1.6~500x1.4x1.6. Normal TCs are designed to work with fast prime lens which have excellent performance and image quality, not advised to work with zooms, especially for such a huge range zoom lens as 50-500. I dun use 1.4x TC due to the fact that:

    1. I have 1.6x FLM in D60, practically long enough. When I shoot at 800mm equivalent (due to the in-camera cropping with FLM), I need proper handling of my lens with a solid tripod and sometimes cable release/mirror lockup to get sharp pix;

    2. If I use TC, my max aperture will be f8+, so D60 cannot AF. I think I heavly rely on AF, especially for moving subjects like birds. It's hard to get good composition when worrying about focusing at the same time. Well, I am the spoiled younger generation photographer u know;

    3. As mentioned, image quality drops.

    More practically, I attach an extension tube with 500mm end to shoot close-up. My major concern in nature photography for now is to get clean background. U may not believe that, I may throw a pic with sharp subject but poor background. Not because I only like to shoot close-up. If can get better background, I will try to balance with the environment as well.

    If u have difficulty in understanding all the above points, which are basically from my personally experience. U may try my setup sometime when I go out and shoot. I believe for amateur work, not very action oriented situation, 50-500 is a good alternative to the OEM lenses.
    Thanks Tom for the explanation. I have a clear picture now! Pardon me, just 2 more questions:

    (1) Given that the D60 doesn't capture full-frame, does it mean that what u see in the viewfinder is not what u get in the picture? I read the D60 review at dpreview.com and noted that the areas covered by the sensor is smaller than a 35mm film frame.

    (2) When you are shooting wildlife, for instance birds, at at the 500mm end, do you practice the 'long lens technique' as advocated by Moose Peterson so as to cut out the vibration from the mirror lock-up when the shutter is released?

  7. #27
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    Well, basically it's WYSIWYG, no further mess caused. But D60's viewfinder only covers 92% (if I am not wrong) of the recorded pix. Only pro bodies like 1v/D/Ds offer 100% view, which is a very attractive function when you shoot with films.

    Whenever you use long focal length, it's extremely important to stablize the whole system in order to get sharp pictures. With a good tripod and ballhead, it becomes much easier. 50-500 is relatively small, not that hard to stablize it from my own experience.

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