Pls. read, Low light shooters!

[cy_j]

I have a couple of interesting suggestions, when shooting in low light.

1.Don't use ISO800, use ISO200 with -2ev.
2.Don't use ISO1600, use ISO400 with -2ev.

Then push the exposure by 2 stops.

While doing BW shots, I noticed high ISO pics have a higher degree of noise reduction than the lower ranges, 400 and below. I wanted the sharp, grainier effects seen with my previous Tri-X shots, so I thought of doing an exposure push. What I found was a pleasant surprise:

1. Pushed shots keep more of the color saturation.
2. Due to lesser degrees of noise reduction, pushed shots produce more details.

Caveat: You must do PP (personally, I find PP to be 60% of the fun!)

Here's the test shots gallery:
http://cyril-jeane.smugmug.com/gallery/1987175

And here's the full shot of the test, at ISO200, 0ev:

[aaron80]

Thanks for the tips.. Will try it out and post my test results here too..

[Clockunder]

Thanks.

It looks like the camera is programmed to ensure proper exposure out of the camera rather than to under-expose it a little and boost it back through post-processing. Considering the F30 is targeted mainly at consumers who do not do post-processing, this is quite understandable.

As expected, there is heavier noise reduction algorithm at higher ISO, thus resulting in a loss of some colour saturation and details.

For those who do post-processing, it's probably better to under-expose a little using a lower ISO and then pp.

[cy_j]

Hope to see some tests from 6500 owners too (though I think that will give similar results).

[kross]

this is only good if u shoot with tripod or has stable hands....?

[wong_se]

Originally Posted by cy_j I have a couple of interesting suggestions, when shooting in low light. 1.Don't use ISO800, use ISO200 with -2ev. 2.Don't use ISO1600, use ISO400 with -2ev. Then push the exposure by 2 stops.

hi cy_j, do u mean to shot with ISO200 with -2EV, then push up the exposure by 2 stops in PS ?

[cy_j]

Originally Posted by wong_se hi cy_j, do u mean to shot with ISO200 with -2EV, then push up the exposure by 2 stops in PS ?

Yes sir!

[cy_j]

Originally Posted by kross this is only good if u shoot with tripod or has stable hands....?

No, this holds true, and is much more applicable, hand held. Say, for example, if at ISO 200, 0ev, exposure requires 1/6 sec, using -2ev comp will give (1/6 x 1/2 x 1/2 = 1/24) or around 1/20,even 1/30 sec shutter speed.

[ExplorerZ]

ISO 200 with -2EV don really work well... by pushing up, you are actually inducing more noise to the pic. imho. and there might be a higher chances of having very underexposed dark area.

[kross]

Originally Posted by cy_j No, this holds true, and is much more applicable, hand held. Say, for example, if at ISO 200, 0ev, exposure requires 1/6 sec, using -2ev comp will give (1/6 x 1/2 x 1/2 = 1/24) or around 1/20,even 1/30 sec shutter speed.

ok...i shall try this out....

[unseen]

Originally Posted by ExplorerZ ISO 200 with -2EV don really work well... by pushing up, you are actually inducing more noise to the pic. imho. and there might be a higher chances of having very underexposed dark area.

I think you ought to try it first..

[kross]

erm....the details seem better for iso200, -2ev and pushed up at pp...
however, the noise is bad as expected but worse than iso800, -0ev....

iso800


iso200 -2ev



cheers...

[ExplorerZ]

Originally Posted by kross erm....the details seem better for iso200, -2ev and pushed up at pp... however, the noise is bad as expected but worse than iso800, -0ev.... iso800 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v389/Kkross/t1a.jpg iso200 -2ev http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v389/Kkross/t2a.jpg cheers...

try doing a NR until the noise of both pic are about the same... those 'extra' details will be some what gone as well.
for me, i normally only use -ev when i reached the max ISO yet can't get good shutter speed enough for my shot.

[kross]

Originally Posted by cy_j "While doing BW shots, I noticed high ISO pics have a higher degree of noise reduction than the lower ranges, 400 and below. I wanted the sharp, grainier effects seen with my previous Tri-X shots, so I thought of doing an exposure push."

for a moment, i think i missed his point.....
it holds true if that's the result he wanted....

cheers...

[StreetShooter]

Basically what you're trying to do is circumvent the automatic noise-reduction done in-camera, in order to preserve detail at the expense of having more noise.

Good idea, but may I suggest an easier way to achieve (mostly) the same result is simply to use unsharp mask during post-processing? True, it's not the same thing, but I have a feeling the end result will be very similar.

[cy_j]

Originally Posted by StreetShooter Basically what you're trying to do is circumvent the automatic noise-reduction done in-camera, in order to preserve detail at the expense of having more noise. Good idea, but may I suggest an easier way to achieve (mostly) the same result is simply to use unsharp mask during post-processing? True, it's not the same thing, but I have a feeling the end result will be very similar.

Nahh, didn't give the desired results. The grains/noise characteristics were strange (more oilpainting-like) and the details that weren't captured in the first place couldn't be recouped.

[Zerstorer]

Shooting underexposed and then pushing it back digitally will reduce the usable dynamic range you have in the image. Remember that whatever is not captured cannot be recovered. If you underexpose, low shadow details will be reduced to black and it will only appear as a a shapeless mass even if you pull it back again, moreover, some areas might show posterization if applied too drastically.