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Thread: How to pull film out from cartridge?

  1. #21
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    Actually you don't really need a film picker. A strip of paper (e.g. cut from a name card) narrower than the width of the film cannister and attached with double side tape at the tip can be used to extract out the film.

    Just insert the paper strip into the slit and pull it out. The lead of the film will follow.

    Originally posted by Larry
    what you need is something called a Film Pick or Picker. easily obtainable from CP/fotoguide/ruby photo or any good photo lab. get the blue Konica one, easy to use and so far, the most popular.

  2. #22
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    Cannot

    U mean the double tape goes inside the canister is it?
    How far must go in? And the sticky part must face which way? inside or outside or both?

  3. #23

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    I know that some Nikon bodies can be reprogrammed to leave the film leader out. I am not sure if they can program your F65... call and ask. It might be possible.

    As for rewinding, reloading, and resuming from where you left off, I have been doing that for 3 years now ... a few hundred rolls, and the camera has not made a mistake - double exposure, missing a frame, misalignment, etc. This is because most EOS bodies use an infrared sprocket hole sensor for precise alignment. Down side is that you can't use infrared film without fogging.

    Side note:
    Most EOS bodies allow this... cheapo ones like EOS-50, 630, etc as well. I found it particularly good for black and white.

  4. #24
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    can ... on the tip of the strip just paste a double-sided tape. Peel of the top part of the tape, and insert the strip into the slit. The lead of the film will stick onto the sticky surface. You just have to pull it out slowly.

    Tried many times and it works.

    Originally posted by Deep5
    Cannot

    U mean the double tape goes inside the canister is it?
    How far must go in? And the sticky part must face which way? inside or outside or both?

  5. #25
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    Originally posted by kiwitan
    can ... on the tip of the strip just paste a double-sided tape. Peel of the top part of the tape, and insert the strip into the slit. The lead of the film will stick onto the sticky surface. You just have to pull it out slowly.

    Tried many times and it works.

    I not tt skilled ah. Try many many many many many times then work.

    Finally bought the cheapo 2 tongue one, takes practise and a maybe a couple of attempts.

  6. #26
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    Originally posted by mervlam


    There is no need to advance to the last frame + 1 or 2 for Canon. The film advancing unit in Canon cameras can accurately wind the film to the next available frame without any overlapping or extra space. But u can only do that if your roll of film has a tongue.
    what is in the tongue that is required for counting holes by the camera? even if there isn't a tongue, the camera can still count, can't it?

  7. #27

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    Originally posted by hyun


    what is in the tongue that is required for counting holes by the camera? even if there isn't a tongue, the camera can still count, can't it?
    nope.... err... hard to explain leh.. me try to find the URL to show you.

  8. #28

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    oh yeah, you can't use infrared film on EOS 30. Fogs badly. On the upside, its darn accurate. So far nvr miss a beat. But will still skip a frame. For darn impt rolls (eg. wedding), even if can't finish film, just rewind and go on to the next roll.

  9. #29
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    This explains how EOS cameras handle mid row film change.

    http://www.chem.helsinki.fi/~toomas/photo/midroll.html

    Originally posted by mervlam


    nope.... err... hard to explain leh.. me try to find the URL to show you.

  10. #30

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    Originally posted by kiwitan
    This explains how EOS cameras handle mid row film change.

    http://www.chem.helsinki.fi/~toomas/photo/midroll.html

    thanks kiwitan. i'm looking for this link.

  11. #31
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    Aiyoh, just save the leader portion from a used roll of film and stick double side tape also can mah. Just the right flexibility.

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