24-70mm v.s. 24-105mm?

[Jet Lim]

Between 24-70mm f2.8L & 24-105mm f4L IS...I am thinking of only buying one, which should I go for?

Any recommendation?

[dragos]

i will go for the 24-70, for the speed, i.e. 2.8

[vii_haven]

The 24-205 is a newly released lens? What's the pricing for all the new lenses by canon? the 17-55 f2.8 and the 24-105 f4L etc?

[saperboy]

... but if you're looking for better range, 24-105mm is a good option

[saperboy]

oh by the way, may we know what camera you plan on using the lens?

[deencat]

Originally Posted by Jet Lim Between 24-70mm f2.8L & 24-105mm f4L IS...I am thinking of only buying one, which should I go for? Any recommendation?

I think it all depends on what you are shooting, if you shoot in low light all the time, perhaps 24-70mm is a bit more useful to you than the f4. Otherwise the 24-105mm one is better as in the range much better.

Just my 2 cents

[denniskee]

Originally Posted by deencat I think it all depends on what you are shooting, if you shoot in low light all the time, perhaps 24-70mm is a bit more useful to you than the f4. Otherwise the 24-105mm one is better as in the range much better. Just my 2 cents

not very correct imo.

1) shooting in low light, f2.8 does help in the AF speed.

2) if you need more DOV at 70mm focal length for example, using the 24-105mm f4 L IS lens helps.

3) if you need shallow DOV, 70mm f2.8 at 3m to subject is about 30cm for 35mm format.
using 105mm at f4, standing further back, say 4m to subject to get similar subject size, DOV is about 34cm.

[Gunbucker]

Originally Posted by denniskee not very correct imo. 1) shooting in low light, f2.8 does help in the AF speed. 2) if you need more DOV at 70mm focal length for example, using the 24-105mm f4 L IS lens helps. 3) if you need shallow DOV, 70mm f2.8 at 3m to subject is about 30cm for 35mm format. using 105mm at f4, standing further back, say 4m to subject to get similar subject size, DOV is about 34cm.

I would think the IS feature and the ISO would be parameters to handle low light situations. Setting aperture to deal with low light never really made much sense, aperture is more of a DOF parameter. Correct me if I'm mistaken.

[sk.images]

Originally Posted by Gunbucker I would think the IS feature and the ISO would be parameters to handle low light situations. Setting aperture to deal with low light never really made much sense, aperture is more of a DOF parameter. Correct me if I'm mistaken.

Not quite correct, yes higher ISO can help in all low light situations, but the at the expense off added noise. IS will also help in low light (by allowing a slower shutter speed), but at the expense of not being able to freeze a moving object. A larger aperture will help both the AF and assist in low light, but at the expense of DOF.

It really depends on how/what you shoot and what effect you are going for. Personally I would (and I do) choose a larger aperture and lower DOF as this isolates the subject better, while allowing a sufficiently high shutter speed to freeze motion and a sufficiently low ISO to reduce noise - GENERALLY, I think most people would do the same.

[deencat]

Originally Posted by cyber_m0nkey Not quite correct, yes higher ISO can help in all low light situations, but the at the expense off added noise. IS will also help in low light (by allowing a slower shutter speed), but at the expense of not being able to freeze a moving object. A larger aperture will help both the AF and assist in low light, but at the expense of DOF. It really depends on how/what you shoot and what effect you are going for. Personally I would (and I do) choose a larger aperture and lower DOF as this isolates the subject better, while allowing a sufficiently high shutter speed to freeze motion and a sufficiently low ISO to reduce noise - GENERALLY, I think most people would do the same.

Thanks cyber_m0nkey, that's exactly what I wanna say.

IS can only help if you are shooting still object in low light, if you are shooting moving object at 1/15sec or 1/30sec, you will have problem. So at the end come down to the shooting requirements or personal shooting style. (For example, you doesn't like to use flash to shoot under low light, but in this case, even f2.8 may not help, f4 for sure out of the picture.)

I still think prime lens are the best for low light hehe, at least that's for ME.

[Discreet]

24-70L Pros:
1) Faster lens = less DOF = more creative control
2) Faster lens = faster shutter speed = stop motion if needed (1/100 vs 1/50)
3) Faster lens = more light hitting the AF sensor = better AF
4) Faster lens = more light hitting the VF screen = Brighter Viewfinder = Easier to focus?
5) Better Hood Design... At 70mm, front element is recessed while at 24mm, it is all the way in front.

24-105/4L IS Pros
1) Has IS = Can handhold in low light condition IF subject is not moving (like buildings)
2) More range = 70-105mm
3) Lighter

Other comments:
In terms of image quality, i think both are the same. While i have not used a 24-105 before, I seen sample online and my conclusion is that considering the quality control and sample variation across these lenses, the image quality difference are minimal and should be taken out of consideration aka both are equally sharp

The 24-70L is a workhorse lens and personally it is hard to use the lens because of the thin DOF. But from how you look at it, the lens can be more or less verstatile than the 24-105L IS.

Personally, I use the 24-70L as i shoot a lot of low light stuff and portraits. The extra f-stop is more valuable to me. However if I had a 5D or a lighter body (1DmkII is so heavy that whether i mount the 24-70L or 24-105L, it is equally heavy anyway) and i shoot a lot of low light scenary stuff, the 24-105 looks more attractive. It is also slighly better for travel and walkabout because of the longer range and lighter weight.

[Jet Lim]

I suppose they each have their own function and use. Anyway I am carrying the Mark II N, not much difference in weight anyway.

[CYRN]

It's not only about weight or DOF... do take note that most of the Canon's cross sensors are only active with 2.8 lenses or faster.