Solution to a mind boggling 70-200/75-300 mm problem.

[NE clicks clicks]

Having read so many interesting,detailed, yet mind boggling thread on the difficulty to choose between so many excellent lens option in the 70-200/70-300 mm range.(all in the range of S$1000 - S$1300)

It suddenly comes to my mind that would a statistical way (by ownership) an easier way to decide on which to own? Perhaps it may help in some ways to make up our mind.

So please help in contributing to the stats if you are a owner of any of the above.

I personally can't vote yet cos I don't own any of the above.

(Personally has already decide on the Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L USM - A target of mind either by mid-year or by latest Year End )

[JediForce4ever]

Im recommending you the Sigma.As it is f2.8 , it gives you the option if adding a 1.4x or 2xTC and retain AF.This should ensure your 300mm needs and still retain acceptable/good image quality.

[sk.images]

Originally Posted by JediForce4ever Im recommending you the Sigma.As it is f2.8 , it gives you the option if adding a 1.4x or 2xTC and retain AF.This should ensure your 300mm needs and still retain acceptable/good image quality.

Ditto! ^^^^^

[yehosaphat]

Originally Posted by NE clicks clicks Having read so many interesting,detailed, yet mind boggling thread on the difficulty to choose between so many excellent lens option in the 70-200/70-300 mm range.(all in the range of S$1000 - S$1300) It suddenly comes to my mind that would a statistical way (by ownership) an easier way to decide on which to own? Perhaps it may help in some ways to make up our mind. So please help in contributing to the stats if you are a owner of any of the above. I personally can't vote yet cos I don't own any of the above. (Personally has already decide on the Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L USM - A target of mind either by mid-year or by latest Year End )

Hmmm.. same headache as you! 70-200mm f4L or the 70-300mm IS USM

[niki]

hullo,

if i interpret ur poll correctly, the (new) means new model rite? not new lens?

in tat case, i think 70-300mm is the new one, not the 75-300. 75-300 phased out already..

i dun own any.. hahah..i used to have 75-300 USMIII

[NE clicks clicks]

Originally Posted by niki hullo, if i interpret ur poll correctly, the (new) means new model rite? not new lens? in tat case, i think 70-300mm is the new one, not the 75-300. 75-300 phased out already.. i dun own any.. hahah..i used to have 75-300 USMIII

Oh, yes. You are right thanks for pointing it out.

[Zerstorer]

Originally Posted by NE clicks clicks It suddenly comes to my mind that would a statistical way (by ownership) an easier way to decide on which to own? Perhaps it may help in some ways to make up our mind.

I would strongly recommend you to shortlist the lenses you are interested in and test them thoroughly prior to purchase instead of relying on popular opinion. There is no guarantee that the lens you buy would be the same as what someone else has, moreover, not many people would have experience with different lenses in the same range for their choices to be useful.

[JediForce4ever]

Originally Posted by Zerstorer I would strongly recommend you to shortlist the lenses you are interested in and test them thoroughly prior to purchase instead of relying on popular opinion. There is no guarantee that the lens you buy would be the same as what someone else has, moreover, not many people would have experience with different lenses in the same range for their choices to be useful.

I agree...

[wong1979]

Hi, I own the 70-300 IS and I personally think that for this range, IS is essential, can go down to 1/100s handheld at 300mm for close-ups. You may wish to check out some of my samples: http://forums.clubsnap.org/showthread.php?p=2018174

Cheers..

[Danntbt]

No mattter what, 2.8 is important, IS or non-IS.......am downgrading to a sigma from my 2.8L as I need cash, had offer for F4L but decided I need 2.8 esp for indoor in order to freeze action...1 stop cam make the difference.

[Lensman]

Wouldn't increasing the ISO from (say) 200 to 400, also equal to 1 stop.

Yah, grain or noise on pic, it can be fixed easily. Hardly anyone blows the photo to 20" x 24".

Without IS, you pix already blur due to shaky hands. No amount of PS & stuff can fix that (unless you work for CSI labs lah)....

[NE clicks clicks]

Originally Posted by Zerstorer I would strongly recommend you to shortlist the lenses you are interested in and test them thoroughly prior to purchase instead of relying on popular opinion. There is no guarantee that the lens you buy would be the same as what someone else has, moreover, not many people would have experience with different lenses in the same range for their choices to be useful.

Thanks for you advice, I would definitely go to shop to try them out myself before buying. However like I have said previously, it may perhaps help in our decision and not totally relying on it. Its just a way to support/affirm our selection.

[jeryltan]

I think it depends on what you're shooting.. I have the 70-300mm, and seriously it's not enough for shooting closeups of birds.. I tried going Sungei Buloh to take bird photos but it's impossible to get close enough to get a bird to fill the frame, without scaring them away.. Which is why I ended up getting another Kenko 1.4x TC.. But if you're shooting pple, then 200mm should be enough, as long you don't scare pple whjen you're near them

[wong1979]

Originally Posted by jeryltan I think it depends on what you're shooting.. I have the 70-300mm, and seriously it's not enough for shooting closeups of birds.. I tried going Sungei Buloh to take bird photos but it's impossible to get close enough to get a bird to fill the frame, without scaring them away.. Which is why I ended up getting another Kenko 1.4x TC.. But if you're shooting pple, then 200mm should be enough, as long you don't scare pple whjen you're near them

can use extender on EF70-300mm? still got AF?

[niki]

no af.. at least for me.. haha..

[Danntbt]

Originally Posted by Lensman Wouldn't increasing the ISO from (say) 200 to 400, also equal to 1 stop. Yah, grain or noise on pic, it can be fixed easily. Hardly anyone blows the photo to 20" x 24". Without IS, you pix already blur due to shaky hands. No amount of PS & stuff can fix that (unless you work for CSI labs lah)....

Shot at the National Ice skating, pushed up to 3200 managed to freeze at 1/500, tried slower shutter but could not get the sharpness I want....do not need IS as I use Monopod most of the time....

[jeryltan]

Yes, I using the Kenko one, 1.4x.. AF still works but not very well in low light.. The Canon TC should also work on the 70-300mm but the reason I bought Kenko, is so that I can use it with my 100mm Macro as well, which the Canon TC can't..

Originally Posted by wong1979 can use extender on EF70-300mm? still got AF?

[NE clicks clicks]

Originally Posted by jeryltan Yes, I using the Kenko one, 1.4x.. AF still works but not very well in low light.. The Canon TC should also work on the 70-300mm but the reason I bought Kenko, is so that I can use it with my 100mm Macro as well, which the Canon TC can't..

If I am not wrong if I add a 1.4x Canon TC witha EF 70-200 f/4 L I would be able to achieve 280mm with the AF still functioning? Add to the fact that my cam is a 20D means I further multiply it with a 1.6x so to speak?

[jeryltan]

If you're referring to FOV, then yes you can multiply by another 1.6x.. But actual range is still 280mm only, I'm not sure the exact terminology.. As far as I know, AF should still work with a TC, unless under low light..

Originally Posted by NE clicks clicks If I am not wrong if I add a 1.4x Canon TC witha EF 70-200 f/4 L I would be able to achieve 280mm with the AF still functioning? Add to the fact that my cam is a 20D means I further multiply it with a 1.6x so to speak?

[Discreet]

Let me lay it down for you....

70-200/2.8 HSM
The Pros:
1) F2.8 Fast aperture = less DOF = more creative control in your pictures
2) F2.8 Fast aperture = faster shutter speed = you can stop motion in low light conditions
3) F2.8 Fast aperture = faster AF, Brighter Viewfinder
4) Constant Aperture = More convient
5) F2.8 means you can use up to a 2X TC and retain AF if you are planning on getting one (unless you have a 1 series body... you can focus up to F8)
6) Tripod ring = Only lens that feature this. If you are going to shoot handheld, it is basically useless but on a tripod, it is worth it wieght in gold. You have better balance and switching to portrait mode is so fast and easy
7) True HSM = Ring Ultra sonic motor = Full Time manual Focus and super fast AF
8) Non rotating front element = Circular polarisers are good to use
9) 77mm thread = if you have other 77mm lens, you can share threads
10) Big and intimidating = if you want to use your camera gear to bully your way into shooting location, you need the biggest lens possible that screams PRO PRO, GET OUT OF THE WAY
11) Black in color

The Bad (subjective):
1) more expensive
2) heavy
3) big filter threads 77mm
4) black in color
5) not a canon lens

So you can see the pros and cons for the sigma, some are subjectives while other are not. Now to the 70-200L/4.

70-200/4L
The Pros:
1) True USM = Ring Ultra sonic motor = Full Time manual Focus and super fast AF
2) Non rotating front element = Circular polarisers are good to use
3) 67mm thread = if you have other 67mm lens, you can share threads
4) Big and intimidating = if you want to use your camera gear to bully your way into shooting location, you need the biggest lens possible that screams PRO PRO, GET OUT OF THE WAY
5) White in color
6) Is an L lens
7) Constant Aperture = More convient
8) One of the best combination of having a light and sharp lens if you are not planning to shoot at big apertures.
9) Light

The Bad (subjective):

1) F4 slow aperture = more DOF = less creative control in your pictures
2) F4 slow aperture = slower shutter speed = you might not be able to stop motion in low light conditions
3) F4 slow aperture = slower AF, darker Viewfinder
4) F4 means you can use up to a 1.4X TC and retain AF if you are planning on getting one (unless you have a 1 series body... you can focus up to F8)
6) Tripod ring = Optional. After paying for me, it might not be as a good a deal
7) wierd size for filter threads 67mm

Now for the 70-300 IS


70-200/4L
The Pros:
1) IS = Easy to handhold
2) IS = can get away with lower shutter speed
3) Bigger focal range = Goes up to 300mm
4) 58mm thread = if you have other 58mm lens, you can share threads
5) Small and Light

The Bad (subjective):

1) F5.6 slow aperture = more DOF = less creative control in your pictures
2) F5.6 slow aperture = slower shutter speed = you might not be able to stop motion in low light conditions
3) F5.6 slow aperture = slower AF, darker Viewfinder
4) F5.6 means cannot use TCs
6) Tripod ring = no tripod ring available
7) Aperture is variable. This is more inconvienent
8) Front element rotates = not good for usage with Circular polariser
9) Lens moves in and out when you zoom in and out. AF is not internal... front elemen moves in and out. Not as good a build quality.

I think this sums up the 3 lens that you should be considering ( the old 75-300 and the tokina, I dont think are worth it and never used it before). The sigma is the one to get if you need the F2.8. It is heavy and big. The F4L is the one to get if you want a light weight zoom lens that is reasonably fast and has very good IQ. The IS lens is the one to get if you feel that IS is the most important.