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Thread: Moon

  1. #1

    Default Moon

    Hi guys...got another noob qn. here
    erm may i know the setting which you all use to take the moon?
    i read somewhere that
    use 1/40s F 11-18 and lowest iso
    but my moon turns "white" with a sharp outline
    if i increase my aperture,the detail of the moon shows yet all that surrounds it is black..
    so i would like to know what settings could be used to achieve crisp detail and nice surroundings(clouds)..time abt 11.00pm

  2. #2

    Default Re: Moon

    I don't think you can get the moon properly exposed with the clouds properly exposed at the same time. This is because the dynamic tonal range of the scene is simply too wide to be captured.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Moon

    For your reference : http://www.weather-photography.com/t...page=doubleexp

    Exposure
    Typically, you will need exposure times for the landscape at between 1 and 4 minutes, f/2.8, using 100 ISO film. The exposure times for this differ so widely that I can't possibly give a correct value; it depends a.o. on lunar altitude, cloudiness, light pollution, lunar phase, time of year and day (night), albedo of landscape, etc. So, use your camera's exposure meter, and expose 1/2 to 1 stop longer than indicated to account for the film reciprocity error. Make sure you also bracket your exposures (one stop less and another with one stop more, to experiment).

    It is better to choose a higher aperture such as f/5.6 and f/8 combined with a longer exposure time, so your photo will be sharper and show less vignetting.

    For the moon, the exposure differs too, and this is even more difficult to determine because of the various phases of the moon. The brightness of the moon is not just the percentage of disk illuminated! Due to the dry-heiligenschein effect and retro-reflective minerals on the lunar surface, the full moon is much more bright than one would think based on phase angle. So, I'm giving you a formula to determine the proper exposure to within 1/2 stop or so. This formula worked well for me.
    t = F2 / (K * ISO)
    where:
    • t is the shutter speed in seconds
    • K is a constant: 20for crescent moon 40for first/last quarter moon 100for gibbous moon 200for full moon
    • F is the focal ratio (e.g. F=16 for f/16)
    • ISO is your film speed, e.g. 100.
    So, say you are using a 1000mm lens on f/11 with 100 speed film for the moon, and the moon is gibbous. Then t = 112 / (100*100) or t = 121/10000 sec, or about 1/80 sec
    Last edited by Clockunder; 14th January 2006 at 11:58 PM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Moon

    woa...thanks good site..
    anw i got another 3 qns.
    first,"
    take a photo (the first frame of the series);
    retension the rewind lever, so that the film is tightly rolled, and hold on to it so it doesn't roll back;
    while holding the rewind lever, push in the winder-unlock pin (this is used to unlock the film winding cylinder when you want to rewind the film);
    While holding the rewind lever and pressing the rewind unlock pin simultaneously, wind the film as you normally would. However, you will notice that the film does not transport to the next frame, since you have the transport mechanism unlocked. "
    this is film so what to do if digital? PS?
    next now my kit only have a max of 55mm..so the moon is really small-cropping = serious loss of quality-jagged edges
    may i know what zoom could i get a big nice moon?
    lastly,my Dslr only have a max exposure of 30s....how?...30s and 4 mins quite big diff lei....

  5. #5

    Default Re: Moon

    Quote Originally Posted by seanlim
    woa...thanks good site..
    anw i got another 3 qns.
    first,"
    take a photo (the first frame of the series);
    retension the rewind lever, so that the film is tightly rolled, and hold on to it so it doesn't roll back;
    while holding the rewind lever, push in the winder-unlock pin (this is used to unlock the film winding cylinder when you want to rewind the film);
    While holding the rewind lever and pressing the rewind unlock pin simultaneously, wind the film as you normally would. However, you will notice that the film does not transport to the next frame, since you have the transport mechanism unlocked. "
    this is film so what to do if digital? PS?
    next now my kit only have a max of 55mm..so the moon is really small-cropping = serious loss of quality-jagged edges
    may i know what zoom could i get a big nice moon?
    lastly,my Dslr only have a max exposure of 30s....how?...30s and 4 mins quite big diff lei....
    I've previously searched on how to shoot the moon and found many answers to similar questions.

    Try to goggle for "moon exposure" and you'll get your answers.

    I'm still a newbie too. Brief answers :.

    Yes, use Photoshop to combine the moon and other scene.

    You really need long zoom to take photos with the moon filling most of the frame. 55mm kit lens is definitely not enough.

    I think your DSLR should have a bulb mode which enables you to expose more than 30 secs. Use a remote for long exposure.

    See this : http://dpfwiw.com/moon.htm

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Moon

    Quote Originally Posted by seanlim
    woa...thanks good site..
    anw i got another 3 qns.
    first,"
    take a photo (the first frame of the series);
    retension the rewind lever, so that the film is tightly rolled, and hold on to it so it doesn't roll back;
    while holding the rewind lever, push in the winder-unlock pin (this is used to unlock the film winding cylinder when you want to rewind the film);
    While holding the rewind lever and pressing the rewind unlock pin simultaneously, wind the film as you normally would. However, you will notice that the film does not transport to the next frame, since you have the transport mechanism unlocked. "
    this is film so what to do if digital? PS?
    next now my kit only have a max of 55mm..so the moon is really small-cropping = serious loss of quality-jagged edges
    may i know what zoom could i get a big nice moon?
    lastly,my Dslr only have a max exposure of 30s....how?...30s and 4 mins quite big diff lei....
    you want nice big moon, can go to Singapore Science Centre and go borrow their big telescope.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Moon

    Bro, the answer is quite simple actually. Instead of shooting the moon near midnight, shoot it in the late evenings when the sky is still a medium dark blue. Because the brightness of the sky and moon is not too far apart, not only will you have a more proportionately balanced exposure, your shot will looked coloured instead of B&W.

    About the long shutter speed of 4 mins. The B setting on your shutter allows you to hold the shutter open like forever. 4 mins ah. Sup sup water la.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Moon

    I know you guys are talking about how to use SLR to shoot the moon and i can't help but wonder, does that mean other than SLR,there is no way the normal digital camera can shoot a nice picture of the moon.

    So i took my Canon A620 and went out to take the moon just now and this is what i got


    and Indeed i can't take a good picture of the moon.
    Last edited by animian2002; 15th January 2006 at 12:29 AM.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Moon

    i think you'll need around 400mm, however, i know of some guy who filled the entire frame with the moon using a 2x teleconverter as well as a 800mm lens. as for shooting the moon, shouldn't it be similar to shooting the sun, as the image of the moon is due to the reflection from the sun?

  10. #10

    Default Re: Moon

    This is the size of the moon relative to my 4:3 frame on my Nikon Coolpix 5700's 2/3" size (8.8mm x 6.6mm) CCD sensor. The DSLR's sensor frame is much bigger at 25.1mm x 16.7mm (APS size) and so the moon would appear much smaller in the frame if shot at the same focal length as the 5700.

    Actual focal length was 72mm and magnified by 4x digital zoom (to have the image large in the frame).
    35mm equivalent focal length = 285mm
    35mm equivalent focal length taking into account 4x digital zoom = 1140mm

    Taking into account the 1.4x-1.6x crop factor in DSLR, then you would need 712mm-814mm zoom to have a similar size on the frame (not taking into account the difference in aspect ratio 3:2 vs 4:3).



    In black and white :



    ImageDescription -
    Make - NIKON
    Model - E5700
    Orientation - Top left
    XResolution - 300
    YResolution - 300
    ResolutionUnit - Inch
    Software - E5700v1.1
    DateTime - 2005:09:19 04:50:52
    YCbCrPositioning - Co-Sited
    ExifOffset - 284
    ExposureTime - 1/125 seconds
    FNumber - 7.40
    ExposureProgram - Manual control
    ISOSpeedRatings - 100
    ExifVersion - 0220
    DateTimeOriginal - 2005:09:19 04:50:52
    DateTimeDigitized - 2005:09:19 04:50:52
    ComponentsConfiguration - YCbCr
    CompressedBitsPerPixel - 3 (bits/pixel)
    ExposureBiasValue - 0.00
    MaxApertureValue - F 2.83
    MeteringMode - Spot
    LightSource - Auto
    Flash - Not fired, compulsory flash mode
    FocalLength - 284.80 mm
    UserComment -
    FlashPixVersion - 0100
    ColorSpace - sRGB
    ExifImageWidth - 2560
    ExifImageHeight - 1920
    InteroperabilityOffset - 1026
    FileSource - DSC - Digital still camera
    SceneType - A directly photographed image
    CustomRendered - Normal process
    ExposureMode - Manual
    WhiteBalance - Auto
    DigitalZoomRatio - 4.00 x
    FocalLengthIn35mmFilm - 280 mm
    SceneCaptureType - Standard
    GainControl - None
    Contrast - Normal
    Saturation - High
    Sharpness - Hard
    SubjectDistanceRange - Unknown

    Maker Note (Vendor): -
    Data version - 2 (512)
    ISO Setting - 0
    Color Mode - COLOR
    Image Quality - FINE
    White Balance - AUTO
    Image Sharpening - HIGH
    Focus Mode - AF-S
    Flash Setting -
    Unknown - 8.83
    ISO Selection - MANUAL
    Image Adjustment - NORMAL
    Auxiliary Lens - OFF
    Manual Focus Distance - 1.00/0.00
    Digital Zoom - 4.00 x
    AF Focus Position - Center
    Scene Mode -
    Saturation Adjustment - 1
    Noise Reduction - OFF
    Last edited by Clockunder; 15th January 2006 at 12:54 AM.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Moon

    Is this what you are trying to acheive but to expose the clouds, you did have do multiple exposures and combine them.



    A quick one using spot metering.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Moon

    Quote Originally Posted by rebbot
    Is this what you are trying to acheive but to expose the clouds, you did have do multiple exposures and combine them.



    A quick one using spot metering.
    What camera and lens did you use to capture such great details of the moon?

  13. #13

    Default Re: Moon

    If you want to shoot the moon with the clouds without multiple exposure... you gotta shoot early just as the sun rises or set. You'll get blue sky tho.
    Gallery | Facebook Page Spreading the Good photography.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Moon

    Quote Originally Posted by Clockunder
    What camera and lens did you use to capture such great details of the moon?
    If I am not wrong, I used the S3 Pro and it was shot at 400mm.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Moon

    Quote Originally Posted by animian2002
    I know you guys are talking about how to use SLR to shoot the moon and i can't help but wonder, does that mean other than SLR,there is no way the normal digital camera can shoot a nice picture of the moon.

    So i took my Canon A620 and went out to take the moon just now and this is what i got


    and Indeed i can't take a good picture of the moon.
    you can.

    switch spot metering on, meter off the moon and show us what you get.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Moon

    Quote Originally Posted by schon
    you can.

    switch spot metering on, meter off the moon and show us what you get.
    I think the building and clouds will become almost pitch dark if the moon is properly exposed.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Moon

    Quote Originally Posted by rebbot
    If I am not wrong, I used the S3 Pro and it was shot at 400mm.
    I doubt 400mm can capture so much details. Looks like much longer zoom because someone in another thread used stacked teleconverters 1.4x + 2x + 300mm lens also couldn't capture so much details.

    http://forums.clubsnap.org/showthread.php?t=165753
    Last edited by Clockunder; 15th January 2006 at 04:44 AM.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Moon

    Quote Originally Posted by Clockunder
    I doubt 400mm can capture so much details. Looks like much longer zoom because someone in another thread used stacked teleconverters 1.4x + 2x + 300mm lens also couldn't capture so much details.

    http://forums.clubsnap.org/showthread.php?t=165753
    well it is. I just checked the exif info. PM me if you wanna have a go at the lens.

    Cheers!

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Moon

    Quote Originally Posted by Clockunder
    I think the building and clouds will become almost pitch dark if the moon is properly exposed.
    it will.

    he wants a picture of the moon, doesn't he?

    if he desires both, first meter off the buildings like the one above, snap a shot, then meter off the moon, and snap another. lastly, combine them together in ps as a composite photo.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Moon

    A simple to remember rule for taking photos of the moon is the 11, 8, 5.6 rule. For a proper exposure of a full moon is f/11 at one over the ISO setting. For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8, and for a quarter moon, use the same shutter speed at f/5.6.

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