Is it necessary to fit a Filter/Polariser on your ZD Lens?

[Benng]

Hi guys,

Just wanna hear your views on this?

[chancy]

In short,

Protection is generally served by the lens hood, which also help with contrast problems shooting into bright light sources. PL filter only to manage glare & reflection. Except for the new series of ZD lenses, it's actually hard to use a PL with lens hood.

Cheers,

[selamatlzh]

I have a UV filter but not a polariser

[harmony]

A UV filter for protection against accidental scratches. And as for PL I sometimes use a it to help reduce glare or for bluer sky effect.

[KrY0LiT3]

CPL can be used as like an ND too! not just for skys and reflections and glares.

[Mikefellh]

Originally Posted by Benng Is it necessary to fit a Filter/Polariser on your ZD Lens?

A polarizer is not something that's "necessary"...it's something you use if you want the polarizing effect and/or want to get rid of reflections on non-metalic surfaces.

There's many other effects and colour filters to choose from as well, and here's an example:

http://www.thkphoto.com/products/hoya/index.html

[KrY0LiT3]

Originally Posted by Mikefellh A polarizer is not something that's "necessary"...it's something you use if you want the polarizing effect and/or want to get rid of reflections on non-metalic surfaces. There's many other effects and colour filters to choose from as well, and here's an example: http://www.thkphoto.com/products/hoya/index.html

colour filters are more unnecessary actually. tones and colour can be adjusted in pp but polarising effects are difficult to duplicate. it brings out the clouds in the sky on good days and cuts reflections too. not essential but good to have. it's the next filter to get after a good UV for protection and before one invests in others like NDs and grads and IR for those who fancy that.

[Hacker]

No need to use any filters of any kind unless you wanna do some special effect like IR...

[say123]

Originally Posted by KrY0LiT3 CPL can be used as like an ND too! not just for skys and reflections and glares.

Can you explain more on your statement?

And also, want to find out from you guys, how do u use a CPL effectively? Like how many degrees away from the sun? etc? I am new using CPL and other filters.

Another question, when using CPL in P mode, we do not need to compensate the EV since the camera will autodetect it and adjust accordingly?

Some info on the usuage will be appreciated. Thanks!

[KrY0LiT3]

Originally Posted by say123 Can you explain more on your statement? And also, want to find out from you guys, how do u use a CPL effectively? Like how many degrees away from the sun? etc? I am new using CPL and other filters. Another question, when using CPL in P mode, we do not need to compensate the EV since the camera will autodetect it and adjust accordingly? Some info on the usuage will be appreciated. Thanks!

neutral density filters are used usually in bright daylight. they reduce the amount of light entering the lens. now u'd proabably wonder why in the world would you want that? there are some applications for that. for example taking photos of waterfalls, stopping down to f/22 might not be desirable at times and may still be insufficient to achieve the long exposure you may want. control of bokeh in outdoor portraits is another application. but most cams now can achieve very high shutter speeds so that is not a problem. 0.3 0.6 ... the number determines the amount of stops it decreases the exposure by.

CPL/PL filters reduces light entering the lens and thus also serve as a mild ND. there's no need to compensate when using most filters as most meter readings are TTL.

Neutral grads are nice to have when taking sceneries as the sky tends to overexpose. but with the advent of digital. just do some bracketing on a tripod and photoshop will suffice.

regarding how to use a CPL. just rotate and see lah! lol. no seriously i mean it! the effect is usually most prominent when the little line or dot on the filter is pointed away from the sun at 90 degrees AND you're taking the photo at about 90 degrees from the light source. the direction in relation to the sun is more impt. taking a picture with the sun in front has little to no effect no matter how you turn the rim.

do i get 2 cents for this? =P

i would advice the use of a UV for protection. my friend dropped his white canon during NDP preview and he was so glad he had his filter on. some naturalists dislike the use of filters, while others frown on digital manipulation, prefering neutral grad anytime.

i'm... neutral. anything goes as long as i get the desired outcome.

[say123]

Originally Posted by KrY0LiT3 regarding how to use a CPL. just rotate and see lah! lol. no seriously i mean it! the effect is usually most prominent when the little line or dot on the filter is pointed away from the sun at 90 degrees AND you're taking the photo at about 90 degrees from the light source. the direction in relation to the sun is more impt. taking a picture with the sun in front has little to no effect no matter how you turn the rim.

Thanks for the tip!
From what i understand , u suggest to try standing about 90 degrees from the light source with the CPL at the 90 degree (either to the left or right,assuming top position is 0 degree)?


Just borrowed a book on filters from the lib today.
Will be reading through them to see if got any helpful hints.

[KrY0LiT3]

Originally Posted by say123 Thanks for the tip! From what i understand , u suggest to try standing about 90 degrees from the light source with the CPL at the 90 degree (either to the left or right,assuming top position is 0 degree)? Just borrowed a book on filters from the lib today. Will be reading through them to see if got any helpful hints.

haha hard to explain lah. just experiment lor. you'll find out better first hand than through any books. no hard and fast rules. if u get a nice result just snap lor!

[say123]

Originally Posted by KrY0LiT3 haha hard to explain lah. just experiment lor. you'll find out better first hand than through any books. no hard and fast rules. if u get a nice result just snap lor!

haha. will try that out next time.

also, would like to share with you guys. quoted from the lib book i borrowed.

'In order to maximize the filter's results and minimize reflection, the photographer needs to place the camera at a 30 degree angle relative to the light source.'

'When using it(CPL) to darken a blue sky, only a portion of the sky will be affected. The effected area can be determined by first pointing the index finger toward the sun and then raising the thumb to form a right angle to the index finger. Now, with the index finger still pointed at the sun, the hand is rotated left to right so that the thumb cuts an arc in the sky. This arc will represent the max area of effect decreasing to no effect in areas closer to the sun.'


a bit OT, what CPL would you guys recommend..?
Was thinking of the B+W. CPL.. there are 2 versions, one slim one and the other one 'thicker' as can fix other filters.

Just want to ask what would i miss out if i get the thin version? (the price does not differ much). Did u guys put any extra filters in front of the CPL? eg a gradutaed ND?

Also, is it advisable to buy step up rings instead and get the largest thread size CPL? will it cause really bad vignetting?

TIA

[KrY0LiT3]

Originally Posted by say123 haha. will try that out next time. also, would like to share with you guys. quoted from the lib book i borrowed. 'In order to maximize the filter's results and minimize reflection, the photographer needs to place the camera at a 30 degree angle relative to the light source.' 'When using it(CPL) to darken a blue sky, only a portion of the sky will be affected. The effected area can be determined by first pointing the index finger toward the sun and then raising the thumb to form a right angle to the index finger. Now, with the index finger still pointed at the sun, the hand is rotated left to right so that the thumb cuts an arc in the sky. This arc will represent the max area of effect decreasing to no effect in areas closer to the sun.' a bit OT, what CPL would you guys recommend..? Was thinking of the B+W. CPL.. there are 2 versions, one slim one and the other one 'thicker' as can fix other filters. Just want to ask what would i miss out if i get the thin version? (the price does not differ much). Did u guys put any extra filters in front of the CPL? eg a gradutaed ND? Also, is it advisable to buy step up rings instead and get the largest thread size CPL? will it cause really bad vignetting? TIA

i don't think the slim one is necessary even for the 11-22, unless you plan to stack filters. i am not inclined to the slim version as i need to use the provided rubber hood. i prefer the snap on oly ones lah. lol. you can save some money by getting the non-slim version.

CPL is not really needed for some cams. if i remember correctly someone actually tested linear ones and there are no exposure problems with the e-1. should be similar in the other e-cameras too. Linear has more pronounced effects.

get the CPL or Linear B+W MRC one. i think the 67mm CPL is going for about $150. ouch.

[Hacker]

I don't think we really need a polariser for SG as we are at sea level. That said, we need it if we want to cut glare and reflection.

Example:
#1 This is blue enough...


#2 A polariser would have cut out the reflection in the glass.

[say123]

Originally Posted by Hacker I don't think we really need a polariser for SG as we are at sea level. That said, we need it if we want to cut glare and reflection.

Sorry can explain more on why we dont need a polariser as SG is at sea level?

OT: If photographing someone with a bright sunny background, How to you expose the background (eg. showing the blue sky) with the person also not being dark? Any type of filter can help here? or have to take 2 shots then use PS?

TIA

[Hacker]

Whole bunch of info:

http://www.photo.net/equipment/filters.html

http://www.photo.net/equipment/filters/

I'm sure that there are more. Just gotta do a search.