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#1 |
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Deregistered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 23
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Alright...
So...I'm mostly a camera collector and hardly ever shoot. I'm not sure how that happened. Anyway...here's what I'd like to do...I want to take nighttime shots of buildings...I want to shoot slide...and I have mostly point-and-shoot cameras. Will I encounter problems? I hear slides have very narrow exposure range...and I hear point-and-shoots can't meter worth a darn in low light or difficult lighting. At least...that's what some photo.net people said...saying it's practically folly shooting slides at night with a p&s. But I found a couple glimmers of hope...a couple photo.net people said they've done it with great success. So what do you guys think? If it makes a difference, I have just about every modern high end point-and-shoot camera...in case one is better than another at exposure metering. Thanks! |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: beebox
Posts: 2,101
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Of coz u can,just need a tripod.
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Changi
Posts: 4,376
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spot metering would be useful when shooting slides at night, as would be some level of exposure control. If your PnS doesn't have a spot meter, get an external one.
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Jakarta, Indonesia
Posts: 241
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Can your PnS select manual shutter speed, if not, forget about it, most point and shoot will fire the flash due to the lack of light. Flash is of course pointless.
Otherwise get Provia 400F film and when process ask for push +2 stop. |
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#5 | |
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Deregistered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 23
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#6 | |
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Deregistered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 23
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: beebox
Posts: 2,101
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highlights will definitely be blown off for nite scene if u want a balanced result,unless u dun mind a dark looking slide with well exposed strong light.
i would say put it on tripod and bracket a few shots with the + - EV and see how it goes. |
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#8 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: sing
Posts: 1,540
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#9 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Changi
Posts: 4,376
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Jakarta, Indonesia
Posts: 241
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pushing 2 stop on Provia 400F makes it into ISO 1600, since you cannot select manual speed your PnS might not go more than 1 sec exposure and you definitely need more than 1 sec.
Here is my rule of thumb at ISO 400: 2 second, 4 second, 8 second at aperture F8 for cityscapes. I always get at least 1 good exposure using that rule. |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: London
Posts: 2,378
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i think the konica hexar or some of the contax and leica PnS allow manual exposure. That will help. Also, look at the exposure guide found on the inside of the film's box. It tells you how much compensation you need to key in for that particular type of film. This is key since the exposure time vs aperture relationship is not linear esp at low light levels.
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#12 | |
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Deregistered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 23
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: sing
Posts: 1,540
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many years ago USA sold a night shot calculator
basically a reference guide. it is handy size and has guides on what exposure to use for what situation fyi the olympus om4 can autometer for very long exposures accurately the pentax LX not bad too i think the gossen meter I used to have called mastersix can meter dim scenes up to many hours. |
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#14 | |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Serangoon
Posts: 82
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Leica Cm has a Manual long time exposure where you can manual detemine the exposure time from 0 to 99s. Cheers Last edited by alvinchuan; 30th October 2005 at 09:01 PM. |
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#16 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Singapore
Posts: 711
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If you are worried of under exp and blown highlights. I suggest you take at dusk where there is still a tinge of blue in the sky. So that the highlights wont be blown and shutter speed will be ard 1/8s to 1s if u use provia 400. (If i am not wrong some P&S can go up to 1-2 sec exp) Should yield quite satisfactory results.
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#17 | |
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Deregistered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 23
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Leica CM Nikon 35ti Minolta TC-1 Ricoh GR1v Rollei AFM35 Contax T3 Yashica T5 (T4 Super) Olympus Stylus Epic Cosina CX-2 Lomo LCA Minox 35 GT-E Olympus XA Canon Demi EE17 Agat 18K Argus Model A Canon AF35M (Autoboy) Smena 8M Could have sworn I had a couple others...but that's all I could find right now in my basement camera corner. Course, that's more than enough really...most of them never get used anymore. I tend to grab the GR1v most often...I just love its size, form factor, the SNAP mode, etc. Plus, it's already dinged up a tiny bit so I'm not worried about banging it around! |
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: sing
Posts: 1,540
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Get a hand held meter and a cheap & good rangefinder or slr that is fully manual where you control shutter speed and aperture. Must have "Bulb". A fairly good and light tripod.
Cable release with locking feature. You are in business. All can be bought second hand cheaply. Not need to splurge. |
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#19 | |
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Deregistered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 23
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: sing
Posts: 1,540
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your Contax T3 can autoexpose up to 180 seconds
your Rollei AF35M can autoexpose up to 60 seconds if you want to use spot metering suggest you use it to measure a specific area then go to manual mode to control the shot have to be careful what area to measure with the spot meter if measured area too bright or too dark you got problems kex said bracket your shots since you insist to use point and shoot for night shots this is sensible advice you can buy (I think name is) Black Cat low light exposure calculator. my old kodak exposure calculator has some recommendations too. or you can just surf the net there will be a low light shot forum telling you best exposure combination of shutter speed and aperture (provided your point and shoot allows you to control both as the Contax T3 does) the leica minilux point and shoot has an electrical cable release for "Bulb" mode shots. Some useful links for all on night photography and calculating exposure. http://abetterphotoguide.bizhosting....alculator.html http://www.robert-barrett.com/photo/...alculator.html http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/sunny.html http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/moonlight.html http://www.blackcatphotoproducts.com/guide.html Last edited by ricohflex; 31st October 2005 at 11:00 AM. |
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