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Old 16th October 2002   #1
hackie
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Default Film for nite potrait..

i'm using F80 which flash sync at 1/125...
flash used is Sigma EF500Std with Omni Bounce..

wanna take some outdoor portraits for a fren's ROM held in a open courtyard at nite!

so, qns r.....
1) wat film to use??

2) how to overcome the harsh shadow? can i tilt the flash a little?

TIA.....
Derek
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Old 16th October 2002   #2
Larry
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1) try Fuji Press 800

2) use the Omni-bounce, tilt 45 degrees to subject. works for me!
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Old 16th October 2002   #3
Dagger
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1) Fuji Press 800!!!
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Old 16th October 2002   #4
hackie
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tilt 45 but no ceiling to bounce leh..

can still work??

or shld i use bounce card?
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Old 16th October 2002   #5
ckiang
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Quote:
Originally posted by hackie
tilt 45 but no ceiling to bounce leh..

can still work??

or shld i use bounce card?
Forget flash, use available darkness.

Regards
CK
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Old 16th October 2002   #6
Larry
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Quote:
Originally posted by hackie
tilt 45 but no ceiling to bounce leh..

can still work??

or shld i use bounce card?
you got omni-bounce rite? so no need bounce off ceiling what. the OB already diffuse the light to soften any shadows.
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Old 16th October 2002   #7
hackie
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Quote:
Originally posted by ckiang


Forget flash, use available darkness.

Regards
CK
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Old 16th October 2002   #8
hackie
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Quote:
Originally posted by Larry
you got omni-bounce rite? so no need bounce off ceiling what. the OB already diffuse the light to soften any shadows.
ic...

but need to do any flash comp??
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Old 16th October 2002   #9
YSLee
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Quote:
Originally posted by Larry
you got omni-bounce rite? so no need bounce off ceiling what. the OB already diffuse the light to soften any shadows.
Wow, so what is the omni-bounce going to bounce off then?
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Old 16th October 2002   #10
mervlam
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seems that many people think that Omnibounce means no need to bounce

to see how it works: http://www.stofen.com/Info/HowItWorks.htm
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Old 16th October 2002   #11
YSLee
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Quote:
Originally posted by hackie


ic...

but need to do any flash comp??
The trick to getting these right is to either 1) balance flash and ambient exposure (ie use slow sync), or 2) make the flash such that it'll create a natural lighting effect as possible. A combination of proper diffusing (ie a huge cheap bounce card) as well as positioning of the flash (say to a point much higher from the lens) will do the job. Experiment before the big day!
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Old 16th October 2002   #12
ckiang
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Quote:
Originally posted by YSLee


The trick to getting these right is to either 1) balance flash and ambient exposure (ie use slow sync), or 2) make the flash such that it'll create a natural lighting effect as possible. A combination of proper diffusing (ie a huge cheap bounce card) as well as positioning of the flash (say to a point much higher from the lens) will do the job. Experiment before the big day!
There's a little anecdote quoted by National Geographic photographer Michael Yamashita mentioned during a recent seminar - there was a guy in one of his workshops who devised a helmet with a flash and medium softbox, and he wore that while shooting!

Regards
CK
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Old 16th October 2002   #13
Larry
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Quote:
Originally posted by mervlam
seems that many people think that Omnibounce means no need to bounce

to see how it works: http://www.stofen.com/Info/HowItWorks.htm
oops... well you really learn something new here everyday.

i guess that explains a lot... i usually use omni-bounce for indoor evening shots and a lumi-quest pocket bouncer for outdoor shot.
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Old 16th October 2002   #14
hackie
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Quote:
Originally posted by YSLee


The trick to getting these right is to either 1) balance flash and ambient exposure (ie use slow sync), or 2) make the flash such that it'll create a natural lighting effect as possible. A combination of proper diffusing (ie a huge cheap bounce card) as well as positioning of the flash (say to a point much higher from the lens) will do the job. Experiment before the big day!
using slow sync will still create a harsh shadow rite?

for the bounce card, izzit the kind tat's bend at 45 degrees with the flash head at 90??
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Old 16th October 2002   #15
binbeto
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Just go out there and try it.. then you will learn..

Light condition changes always..
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Old 16th October 2002   #16
oceanxp
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Quote:
Originally posted by Larry
1) try Fuji Press 800

2) use the Omni-bounce, tilt 45 degrees to subject. works for me!
why fuji press 800 ?? and not NPS ?
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Old 16th October 2002   #17
aesthetic
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Quote:
Originally posted by hackie


using slow sync will still create a harsh shadow rite?

for the bounce card, izzit the kind tat's bend at 45 degrees with the flash head at 90??
i dont think slow sync will create a harsh shadow... unproper use of flash will create harsh shadows.

This is how flash works: shutter releases, the film is being exposed (shutter speed controls how long it exposes), flash being fired, flash is very fast and quick, film still exposing, shutter closes. End of exposure.

As you can see, the flash is being fire *during* the amibent exposure. Even if you use 1/250 or 1/ 2 of a second, the same amount of flash will be fired during that time. That means, even if you are using a super fast 1/250 or slow 1/2 speed, all of the flash that you set will hit subject and expose that to the film at whatever power you set your flash to.
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Old 16th October 2002   #18
ckiang
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Quote:
Originally posted by oceanxp


why fuji press 800 ?? and not NPS ?
Coz Press 800 is ISO 800, NPS is only 160. Press 800 will let you shoot in lower light levels.

Regards
CK
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Old 17th October 2002   #19
hackie
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ok guys. thanks for ur help!!!!
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Old 18th October 2002   #20
oceanxp
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Quote:
Originally posted by ckiang


Coz Press 800 is ISO 800, NPS is only 160. Press 800 will let you shoot in lower light levels.

Regards
CK
won't it be grainy ? iso < 200 will look more natural

just my humble comments
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