View Poll Results: Which one looks best?

Voters
21. You may not vote on this poll
  • built-in flash

    0 0%
  • external flash, pointing directly

    1 4.76%
  • external flash, pointing 45 degrees up

    0 0%
  • external flash, pointing 90 degrees up

    1 4.76%
  • external flash with omnibounce, pointing directly

    0 0%
  • external flash with omnibounce, pointing 45 degrees up

    16 76.19%
  • external flash with omnibounce, pointing 90 degrees up

    3 14.29%
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Thread: Teddy bear test - which one gives the best effect?

  1. #21

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    mpenza, the omnibounce is not recommended to be used with direct on flash when used with an auto flash, because of what CK pointed out, the diffused light may hit the sensor prematurely and result in underexposure. THis point is actually stated in the stofen omnibounce website.

    btw for bounce shots, should compensate right? I thought this is what you always do, you used to teach me that I think.

  2. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Singapore
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    12,938

    Default

    Originally posted by Tweek
    mpenza, the omnibounce is not recommended to be used with direct on flash when used with an auto flash, because of what CK pointed out, the diffused light may hit the sensor prematurely and result in underexposure. THis point is actually stated in the stofen omnibounce website.

    btw for bounce shots, should compensate right? I thought this is what you always do, you used to teach me that I think.
    Thanks for the confirmation just tried to "plug-and-play" without reading up much info.

    Thought there's less need to compensate when using a more powerful flash. Guess I was wrong. Is the amount of compensation (1 stop) quite consistent across different scenarios? I didn't do bouncing cos the places/events I went to usually had ceilings which are too high!
    Check out my wildlife pics at www.instagram.com/conrad_nature

  3. #23
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Singapore, Singapore, Singapor
    Posts
    6,405

    Default

    Originally posted by Tweek
    mpenza, the omnibounce is not recommended to be used with direct on flash when used with an auto flash, because of what CK pointed out, the diffused light may hit the sensor prematurely and result in underexposure. THis point is actually stated in the stofen omnibounce website.

    btw for bounce shots, should compensate right? I thought this is what you always do, you used to teach me that I think.
    If it's TTL, you don't have to. The TTL system will take care of that. For manual you have to. For auto, depends.

    Regards
    CK

  4. #24
    Senior Member
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    Default

    Originally posted by SNAG


    Just to ask you guys... If I am using a F80 with a SB22s or any Nikon flash, and I use a omnibounce, do I have to compensate?
    Omnibounce can fit SB22S?

    Anyway, if you are using the TTL or 3D Matrix Balanced Fill Flash thingie, then you don't need to. I've shot dunno how many weddings and events like that using a SB28 + bouncecard on my F100 and never needed to.

    The TTL system will detect the loss of light through bouncing and autocompensate for that.

    Regards
    CK

  5. #25

    Default

    here, copied and pasted from the stofen website:

    Q: Why must I tilt the flash head to 45 degrees?

    A: In Non TTL models this is necessary to avoid under exposure caused by light from the Omni hitting the external auto sensor of the flash. In TTL models it gives a better feathering wrap around of the light in the range from close to about 15 feet from the subject. Beyond that point with TTL we find straight on works OK for you.


    mpenza, the compensation for bounce (for auto flashes) is not consistent as I've found out with my vivitar. I guess it must be determined thru trial and error and experience.

  6. #26

    Default

    have u guys seen this?

    Teddy bear test

  7. #27

    Default

    Originally posted by ckiang


    Omnibounce can fit SB22S?

    Anyway, if you are using the TTL or 3D Matrix Balanced Fill Flash thingie, then you don't need to. I've shot dunno how many weddings and events like that using a SB28 + bouncecard on my F100 and never needed to.

    The TTL system will detect the loss of light through bouncing and autocompensate for that.

    Regards
    CK
    No la.. I was merely giving an example with the sb22s...
    Thanks a lot!

  8. #28
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    3,911

    Default

    Eh. In true Clubsnap fashion:

    The problem that you are facing is simply that your camera equipment is not up to the task. It's time for an upgrade to a camera with more features and more megapixels.

    If you have an F65, that's not enough, must get at least an F80. After all its features are very limited and you will outgrow it before long. Really, you want at least a semi-serious camera.

    If you already have an F80, then the body build is a bit fragile, and there's not much difference from the F70, so you really should save up a bit longer to get an F100.

    If you already have an F100, then you really want an F5. It may be heavy, but then you are at the top of the ladder and never have to upgrade again.

    If you already have an F5, then you really want a Leica. Nuff said.

    But seriously though, I'm surprised anyone bothers with flash. When shooting inanimate objects like teddy bears, since it's possible to handhold with an IS type lens for 6s, you really should never need to use flash and worry about natural lighting, etc.

    I'm surprised it hasn't already been mentioned in this thread.


  9. #29

    Default

    Originally posted by Jed

    But seriously though, I'm surprised anyone bothers with flash. When shooting inanimate objects like teddy bears, since it's possible to handhold with an IS type lens for 6s, you really should never need to use flash and worry about natural lighting, etc.

    I'm surprised it hasn't already been mentioned in this thread.

    Don't want this thread to get closed down too.

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