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#1 |
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Northwest
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I have a couple of dead D1X batteries, so I took one of them, cut it open, and removed the internal NiMH cells. The metal contacts to the camera are still in tact, and I can run a pair of wires from the internal solder joints to to a DC jack that is mounted on the cover plate of the battery. That should allow me to power the D1X from an external battery pack or from an AC adapter that has 7.2V DC output.
If you are interested to know what the internals of the D1X battery look like you can go to here: http://www.aljacobs.com/cabnikonD1.htm For the external battery pack I found the following pack for radio control cars: http://www.amondotech.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=531 Only US$17.50 for a 7.2V NiMH pack with 3300mAH capacity! The same site also sells a switch mode uP controlled charger for US$14.5. http://www.amondotech.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=709 Alternatively I can get one of the Sony InfoLithiums but that will cost a lot more (US$47.95 for 2200mAH NP-F570). The benefit is lighter weight and no memory effect though... Any comments or suggestions? Thanks! Roy
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#2 |
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Deregistered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Planet Nikon
Posts: 22,045
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Get a D2X.
*espn runs away |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Singapore - Jurong West
Posts: 705
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Hi Roy!
I feel that the connector on the battery pack is too small. Especially if the battery pack is capable of 20 amp current outputs. There might be a lot of resistance in the electrical joints of it's not done properly. I always believe in over kill, thicker wires of higher purity, better solder quality, snug fitting precision connectors, especially in high current draw applications. So it might just be the kiasu side of me talking. ![]() |
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#4 | |
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Moderator
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Location: Northwest
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#5 | |
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Hold on....the bottle neck is the miserable contacts between the battery casing and the camera. The camera definitely takes a lot less current than 20A so there is no need for the battery pack connector to be rated at such high currents. It's OK to be kiasu as long as there is at least some returns on the investment. In this case providing a 20A connection between the battery pack and the modified EN4 does not buy anything. By the way the Tamiya connector is used for radio controlled cars so I think it has to be rated in terms of amperes, which is definitely adequate for D1X. In fact I would probably add a 1A fuse inside the EN4 casing to prevent disasters.
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Land Downunder
Posts: 2,114
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Roy,
Relating to this, do you think it may be possible to make an external batt pack out of 6 standard AA or AAA size NiMH batts in series? These batts can be taken out of the packs to charge in a standard charger. Also, will it also work if we remove the spent cells out of original EN-4 casings and replace them by soldering 6 x AAA NiMH cells in their place? |
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#7 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,380
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20A is a massive load of current. Even my clothes dryer doesn't suck 20A! |
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#8 | |
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Northwest
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6xAA is doable but I was aiming for higher capacity, that's why I was tempted by the 3300mAH RC battery pack. AAA batterys' capacity is too small to be useful (<1000mAH). Some time ago I also came across a website which the owner made a battery pack out of 6x D cells. MAHA has a D cell that is rated at 11,000mAH! http://www.zbattery.com/zbattery/mh-2d110.html Also, keep an eye on Toshiba's latest Lithium Polymer "Super Charge" battery. They claim that it can be charged to 80% of its capacity in just 1 minute! http://www.toshiba.co.jp/about/press/2005_03/pr2901.htm
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Tampines
Posts: 1,090
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Some more D1 battery mods at : http://www.jknights.plus.com/JMK%20P...es/Page573.htm
Has a good step-by-step tutorial on opening the EN4 battery pack. |
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#10 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,380
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What I like about the RC battery pack method is that they usually come ready done with a tail to hook up, all you need do is some very small mods to connect up to the system. Furthermore, good quality smart chargers for 7.2V nimh or nicads are always much more easily obtained than for any other voltage! ;-) How much life you get out of the battery is all dependent on the charger. It's always a balance between cost, capacity, and effort to get it all done eh? Last edited by kahheng; 21st April 2005 at 05:44 PM. |
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#11 | |
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Member
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: In the heart of SengKang
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roygoh, you should be a nuclear scientist.
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#13 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Land Downunder
Posts: 2,114
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BTW, you mentioned a 1.0 A fuse, do we connect it to the +ve end or -ve end, or does it matter? |
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#14 | |
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Northwest
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...I think that could have been my childhood dream but I ultimately ended up as a nerdy electrical engineer... ![]()
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#15 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
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If I go through the trouble of making an external battery pack I would at least shoot for a 50% increase in capacity. Isn't 2500mAH AAs considered top of the line now? Anyway AAs are still the cheapest solution, lightweight, easy to charge and easy to replace. So they are definitely a good choice. If I really need more capacity I can always carry an extra set. Latest charger from Sony - Ultra 15. This baby can charge 4x 2500mAH AAs in 15 minutes. Simply amazing....the charging current has to be 10A per cell to charge in 15 minutes. If there is a 0.1 ohm resistance in the contacts it will be generating 1W of heat. http://www.zbattery.com/bcg-34hue.html
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#16 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Singapore - Jurong West
Posts: 705
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Those so call 15 mins battery charger can only charge to 80% of the cell's capacity. It's always the last 20% that's the hardest and takes the longest to charge.
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#17 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Land Downunder
Posts: 2,114
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Now, with such high currents going thru the system, won't that be a serious cause for concern if anything goes wrong, like a short circuit or a failed cell, causing explosions, etc? Honestly, I think a 90 min charger is good enough for most practical purposes, plus the assurance of better safety. Don't flame me, just IMHO. |
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#18 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,380
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![]() Unfortunately, a lot of nice digicams these days DON'T use AAs anymore ;-) Like yourself, a regular 'fast' charger is good enough for me. I have so many AA chargers that I can't actually use them all unless I start accumulating a lot of AA powered devices again. |
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#19 |
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Northwest
Posts: 5,047
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The 15 min chargers require a larger and separate power supply (at least true for the Panasonic 15 min model I saw in the store today), so they are not really portable. The thing is I will most likely need the fast charging when I am travelling, so there is a little conflict here.
When I am not travelling my 60 min charger from Sony is just fine. Got that in Japan, and it comes with the refresh function. I think I am leaning towards reusing the battery pack I made for my CP995. Just need to modify the battery case I extracted by adding a suitable DC jack for connectin to my existing battery pack.
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