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Thread: Iso

  1. #21
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    Originally posted by Paladin


    Was thinking maybe 400 enough?? In a hotel ballroom..should be sufficient right??
    For such situations, you will probably need at least ISO 400. I'd suggest using NPH 400 if you can afford it (or if you can find it, since it's almost always sold out. Costs $6.80 per roll) or Fuji Superia XTRA 400. Rate these film at ISO 320 (i.e. manually set your ISO on the camera to 320 instead of using DX auto ISO detection) for best results.

    Get out of Program mode. Meter the ambient light provided by the ballroom. Set your exposure to 1-2 stops UNDER this. Try not to use too small an aperture, try something like f/5.6. Suppose the ambient exposure is 1/15s at f/5.6, set your camera to 1/60s at f/5.6.

    Set your flash to TTL mode, attach a bounce card to the flash head and set it to the bounce mode. This will give you very nice, even lighting while still preserving the warm, soft lighting in the ballroom.

    I've used this technique very successfully in several weddings I've shot for my friends, has never failed me.

    This is for the dinner segment. For the dance segment, where there will probably be insufficient light, you may want to try Fuji Press 800 at ISO 800, or push it to 1600.

    Regards
    CK

  2. #22

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    Originally posted by Red Dawn


    better go ISO 800......u want to freeze pple dancing....and not have blur pictures....(of course pictures depicting movement is a different story...)

    Also, if u go ISO 800, EVEN if u use flash, you can retain more of the ambient light - i
    m sure in a hotel ballroom, they should have soft lights that create that special atmosphere....u dunwan to spoil that with your powerful flash! the flash can easily overcome ambient light unless your ambient exposure is near optimal, and for that, you will need that Press 800.
    So how much is FJ Press 800?

  3. #23

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    Originally posted by ckiang


    For such situations, you will probably need at least ISO 400. I'd suggest using NPH 400 if you can afford it (or if you can find it, since it's almost always sold out. Costs $6.80 per roll) or Fuji Superia XTRA 400. Rate these film at ISO 320 (i.e. manually set your ISO on the camera to 320 instead of using DX auto ISO detection) for best results.

    Get out of Program mode. Meter the ambient light provided by the ballroom. Set your exposure to 1-2 stops UNDER this. Try not to use too small an aperture, try something like f/5.6. Suppose the ambient exposure is 1/15s at f/5.6, set your camera to 1/60s at f/5.6.

    Set your flash to TTL mode, attach a bounce card to the flash head and set it to the bounce mode. This will give you very nice, even lighting while still preserving the warm, soft lighting in the ballroom.

    I've used this technique very successfully in several weddings I've shot for my friends, has never failed me.

    This is for the dinner segment. For the dance segment, where there will probably be insufficient light, you may want to try Fuji Press 800 at ISO 800, or push it to 1600.

    Regards
    CK
    Thanks CK..just a couple of Q more:

    Rating the 400 film at 320...do I need also to inform the processing shop abt this?

    Please elaborate more on the exposure part...where I have to step in down..why? I am quite blur in the stepping down part..how you arrive at stepping the shuttle speed to 1/60?

    Bounce card..I am using just a white card attached to my 420 with a rubber band...that sufficient?

  4. #24
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    Originally posted by Paladin


    Thanks CK..just a couple of Q more:

    Rating the 400 film at 320...do I need also to inform the processing shop abt this?

    Please elaborate more on the exposure part...where I have to step in down..why? I am quite blur in the stepping down part..how you arrive at stepping the shuttle speed to 1/60?

    Bounce card..I am using just a white card attached to my 420 with a rubber band...that sufficient?
    No, don't tell the lab. Notice this is called "rating" the film and not "pushing". The idea is to slightly overexpose the film. Negative films do not like underexposure.

    The stopping down thing is a tip from the professionals. You see, the NPH/XTRA 400 can still pick up stuff which are 2 stops underexposed. If the ambient exposure is 1/15 at f/5.6, if you maintain the f-stop, 2 stops down is 1/60. The shutter speed scale goes like (1s, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500 etc). Also, 1/60 is a lot more hand holdable than 1/15.

    Yup, the white card you have will do fine.

    To answer your other question, the Press 800 costs $6.50.

    Regards
    CK

  5. #25
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    Originally posted by ckiang


    For such situations, you will probably need at least ISO 400. I'd suggest using NPH 400 if you can afford it (or if you can find it, since it's almost always sold out. Costs $6.80 per roll) or Fuji Superia XTRA 400. Rate these film at ISO 320 (i.e. manually set your ISO on the camera to 320 instead of using DX auto ISO detection) for best results.

    Get out of Program mode. Meter the ambient light provided by the ballroom. Set your exposure to 1-2 stops UNDER this. Try not to use too small an aperture, try something like f/5.6. Suppose the ambient exposure is 1/15s at f/5.6, set your camera to 1/60s at f/5.6.

    Set your flash to TTL mode, attach a bounce card to the flash head and set it to the bounce mode. This will give you very nice, even lighting while still preserving the warm, soft lighting in the ballroom.

    I've used this technique very successfully in several weddings I've shot for my friends, has never failed me.

    This is for the dinner segment. For the dance segment, where there will probably be insufficient light, you may want to try Fuji Press 800 at ISO 800, or push it to 1600.

    Regards
    CK
    Great tips CK, thanks!

  6. #26
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    Originally posted by ziploc


    Great tips CK, thanks!
    You're welcome. That's what this forum's for.

    Regards
    CK

  7. #27

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    Thanks! CK,

    One last thing...with high ceiling, bounce flash at 60% ok??

  8. #28
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    Originally posted by Paladin
    Thanks! CK,

    One last thing...with high ceiling, bounce flash at 60% ok??
    Depends on how high your ceiling is. White ceiling at about 2.5-3m high and a flash unit with a guide no. of 38 ft (ISO 100) is sufficient if you are using ISO 400 film. Vary the angle based on how far you are from the subject. 60-75 degrees should be about right. Experiment.

    Regards
    CK

  9. #29
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    depending on the height of the ceiling, if its below 3.5 metres, and the guide no. of ur flash is at least 40 or more at iso100, u can use vertical bounce for iso 400 film. been using it for those ceiling during dnd and wedding shoots. give very even lightning. however do take note to rate the flash +1 stop as compared to the aperture setting on ur lens.

    vertical bounce create lesser shadows and softer lightning than 60 degrees bounce. try it and compare the difference.

  10. #30
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    Originally posted by Nuar
    depending on the height of the ceiling, if its below 3.5 metres, and the guide no. of ur flash is at least 40 or more at iso100, u can use vertical bounce for iso 400 film. been using it for those ceiling during dnd and wedding shoots. give very even lightning. however do take note to rate the flash +1 stop as compared to the aperture setting on ur lens.

    vertical bounce create lesser shadows and softer lightning than 60 degrees bounce. try it and compare the difference.
    Actually, if you are using TTL flash (as opposed to non-TTL "Auto" or manual) there is no need to do a +1 on the flash. It will compensate automatically for the loss of light. The last time I tried a +1 compensation on the flash, the pictures come out a bit too bright. Well, at least this is true on a Nikon F100 + SB28.

    Regards
    CK

  11. #31
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    thats on slides rite. never used sb28 before, but used 2b26 on my f90x and f100. no doubt matrix metering and fill in flash is good, but for ttl it tends to under expose by 1/3, which is not very good for negatives. especially if there is only -.5 stop tolerance on most negative i used.

    for negatives, it is always advisable to over-expose by 1/2 to 1 stop. as it can give a slightly higher contrast and also minimize the possibility of being under exposed.

    for digital, i believe the exposure is as stringent as slides. the D1 that iwas using actually can show the difference of 1/3 stop.

    btw ck, have u tried checking ur ttl flash exposures? is it very consistent...thinking of buying sb28 for my f100 but have no chance to tried the flash.


    thanx

  12. #32
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    OOOPS!! think i relpied wrongly

    sorry misinterprete ur reply...

    i tried bouncing with ttl b4...it never wks cos my flash meter reading is always more than 2/3 stop under-exposed on both 90x and f100.

    hmmp...maybe sb28 is more compatible for f100

  13. #33

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    Originally posted by ckiang


    Set your flash to TTL mode, attach a bounce card to the flash head and set it to the bounce mode. This will give you very nice, even lighting while still preserving the warm, soft lighting in the ballroom.

    Regards
    CK
    Sorry, some qn but using Canon system...
    on my 420EX, no button to set to TTL mode, so its automatic?
    when you "set it to bounce mode", basically means tilting or swiveling the head rite?
    so when in bounce mode, the flash can still meter and adjust its output according ly?

    thanks for any answers!

    ..NuTs..

  14. #34
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    Originally posted by nuts


    Sorry, some qn but using Canon system...
    on my 420EX, no button to set to TTL mode, so its automatic?
    when you "set it to bounce mode", basically means tilting or swiveling the head rite?
    so when in bounce mode, the flash can still meter and adjust its output according ly?

    thanks for any answers!

    ..NuTs..
    The 420EX is (E)TTL only. Bounced mode means tilting the head upwards, 60-90 degrees. The flash does not measure the output, but a sensor inside the camera does that and tells the flash when to cut off when the light is sufficient.

    Regards
    CK

  15. #35
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    Hi,

    Originally posted by Nuar
    thats on slides rite. never used sb28 before, but used 2b26 on my f90x and f100. no doubt matrix metering and fill in flash is good, but for ttl it tends to under expose by 1/3, which is not very good for negatives. especially if there is only -.5 stop tolerance on most negative i used.
    No, I experienced that on negatives. Fuji NPH 400 and Superia XTRA 400 rated at ISO 320 to be exact. When I shot an awards ceremony using my F100 + SB28 combination, I get slight overexposure. Comments were that the photos were a bit 'white'.


    for negatives, it is always advisable to over-expose by 1/2 to 1 stop. as it can give a slightly higher contrast and also minimize the possibility of being under exposed.
    Correct. Negatives don't take underexposure very well. This is especially true for Kodak MAX 400. Fuji is a lot better in this aspect.


    for digital, i believe the exposure is as stringent as slides. the D1 that iwas using actually can show the difference of 1/3 stop.
    Right. But digital can actually capture quite a large contrast range, especially if you use the RAW mode. Some post processing can bring it up. But yes, I agree digital behaves quite close to slides.


    btw ck, have u tried checking ur ttl flash exposures? is it very consistent...thinking of buying sb28 for my f100 but have no chance to tried the flash.

    Quite consistent. I have shot 1 ROM and 4 weddings with the combination, using NPH 400/XTRA 400 rated at ISO 320, no exposure compensation on the flash, and all the pictures came out pretty good.

    Regards
    CK

  16. #36
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    Originally posted by Nuar
    OOOPS!! think i relpied wrongly

    sorry misinterprete ur reply...

    i tried bouncing with ttl b4...it never wks cos my flash meter reading is always more than 2/3 stop under-exposed on both 90x and f100.

    hmmp...maybe sb28 is more compatible for f100
    Maybe. I have not tried the 26, but the 25 works pretty well with the F100 also, no exposure compensation required.

    Regards
    CK

  17. #37

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    Ckiang,

    was at the place for my co's D&D for food tasting and took the opportunity to take some shots on my G2...will be using film on that day...Pics with 420EX bounce without reflector looks underexpose...pls comment:





    Shooting Mode Tv( Shutter Speed ) Av( Aperture Value )
    Manual 1/50 2.5


    Metering Mode ISO Speed Lens Focal Length
    Evaluative 50 7.0 - 21.0mm 12.5mm




    Shooting Mode Tv( Shutter Speed ) Av( Aperture Value )
    Manual 1/50 2.5


    Metering Mode ISO Speed Lens Focal Length
    Evaluative 50 7.0 - 21.0mm 12.5mm

  18. #38
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    I guess the ceiling is too high to bounce your flash.
    Check out my wildlife pics at www.instagram.com/conrad_nature

  19. #39

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    Originally posted by mpenza
    I guess the ceiling is too high to bounce your flash.
    Be surprised!! The ceiling was very low...just like a typical HDB flat ceiling....you can see the ceiling from the 2nd pic..

  20. #40

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    guess tat's y u need the reflector to reflect some of the flash forward as fill-in flash... rite?

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