![]() |
|
|
#1 |
|
Guests
Posts: n/a
|
Thanks to the cool guys here who have helped out, I now own a Canon EOS300 with a 50mm/f1.8 lens.
I do have some questions that I really need answers to... could u guys please extend a helping hand again? Thanks! 1. Can I use a Vivitar 285HV with the 300? Will it cause problems? Or should I get a Speedlite 420EX? 2. Will the Fuji Superia Xtra 400 be good for indoor (flourescent, tungsten) shots? As in will graininess be bad? Thanks! |
|
|
#2 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: East
Posts: 2,149
|
Hi, I have the same camera too.
Yup certainly you can use the vivitar 285hv with the EOS300. It's just that ETTL or TTL won't be supported and you have to set the ISO and aperture on the flash itself, which can be a bit cumbersome. But still, I have used the 285hv with the EOS300 and obtained good results.Xtra 400 is not that grainy for my standards.....I pretty much support the use of it if you need to go ISO400. Just have to note that it is daylight balanced so under fluorescent/tungsten lighting you may get colour casts. |
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Guests
Posts: n/a
|
Thanks Tweek. At least that buys me some time to experiment with the Vivitar first.
![]() BTW, what is the most common range (as in the vari-power dial in front) that you have used for: 1. Group shots in daylight? 2. Group shots indoors? 3. Thanks for the warning about the colour cast. Can I prevent it with an omin-bounce? Or a ceiling bounce indoors? 4. Any tips for using the flash and the 300 for macro shots, say of flowers in daylight? Really appreciate your help, thanks! ![]() |
| Sponsored Link |
|
|
#4 | |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: East
Posts: 2,149
|
BTW, what is the most common range (as in the vari-power dial in front) that you have used for: 1. Group shots in daylight? 2. Group shots indoors? Group shots in daylight I'll assume you mean to use fill-flash. My common range is in the yellow/red zone, while setting aperture fstop by 1 to 2 stops smaller than what my cam is using. This results in flash compensation of -1 to -2 stops. For group shots indoors, I will go into the blue/purple zone, and sometimes the red zone. For group shots usually you'll set a higher f-stop for more DOF, and you might want to bounce the flash. So I usually compensate by +1 stop (for the loss of light through the bounce) if the ceiling is not too high and light-absorbent. These result in a need for a strong flash power, thus leading into the blue/purple zone. To ensure the flash range can reach your subjects, film of iso400 and above is recommended. 3. Thanks for the warning about the colour cast. Can I prevent it with an omin-bounce? Or a ceiling bounce indoors? I'm afraid you can't get rid of colour cast using omnibounce or ceiling bounce. However, daylight balanced film usually does not get too much of a colour cast under common fluorescent/tungsten light, although some lightbulbs will cause orange cast. You can use filters or special color-balanced film to reduce the cast, but for me that is hardly necessary. 4. Any tips for using the flash and the 300 for macro shots, say of flowers in daylight? for macros, you can't use direct flash cos the subject distance is too short and the flash may wash out the subject. I bounce the light from a white card, the angle of which is determined by eyeball (agah-agah). As for flash power, I'm not experienced enough to know how much to use for whatever situation, but I usually set the flash to manual mode and use 1/8 or 1/16 varipower. take my answers as a rough guide only please coz I'm still too amateur to be giving sound advice. ![]() |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Guests
Posts: n/a
|
Tweek:
Deeply appreciated ![]() Thanks for the kind help in providing your exp. I will be taking some indoor and outdoor shots this weekend, and I will tryout the guide you have provided. One more thing though... do you think if the Speedlite (which is full auto) 420EX or the Sigma one u are using will be a lot more effective and provide better exposure than using the Vivitar? I also know that only using the Speedlites will there be AF Assist and high sync speeds... I am contemplating on getting one you see, so that's why I need some ideas here. ![]() Thanks again! |
|
|
#6 | |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Singapore
Posts: 2,212
|
congrats!!!!!!!!!!!!! ![]() a standard lens is a good way to start out and learn. and oh yes..... "welcome to the world of EOS photography. we're confident that this product will serve you well for many years to come..........."(for the rest of the verbiage, refer to the introduction of your camera manual........ ) |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Guests
Posts: n/a
|
Thank you! And I look forward to having a good time shooting! And learning from the community here
![]() |
|
|
#8 | |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: East
Posts: 2,149
|
But you're right, only with speedlite then you can have AF assist and high speed sync (FP). The FP option is one reason why the vivitar can't stand in fully for a speedlite. When you want to use fill-flash in a bright environment, especially when you use a fast film, the vivitar will fail you cos it won't be able to sync with a metered shutter speed of higher than 1/90s. But speedlites do it beautifully. If you have the budget, I'd say you go for a 420ex or the sigma EF500 super. Both about $300+. ![]() |
|
|
|
|
|
#9 | |
|
Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: There lor~
Posts: 4,843
|
Thing to note tho` is that the Sigma EF500Super do have some issue with Canon Digital camera even the D30. I did have some issue with it even Docile has the problem. The flash just went dead for no reason. But one thing to note is that it work perfectly on the film counterpart tho If you thinking of getting the 420EX, you might want to check out the Sigma 500. Alternatively, I can lend you the Sigma to try it out and see for yourself. Enjoy Photography... |
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
Guests
Posts: n/a
|
Tweek and Bluestrike,
And Bluestrike, your generosity and willingness to encourage starting photographers (even to lend a flash) is truly admirable. Thanks! I am thinking of getting the Speedlite, but of course I am thinking of getting another lens first before I get the flash... I am using the 50mm f1.8 and the 28-90mm f4-5.6 (kit) lens... is the latter really that bad? So many bad reviews, saying soft images and "flat" pictures produced... any advice on a versatile lens to start with? I will of course use the 50mm for to take most of my shots. Just need to know what would be the next lens to get for versatility (close to far zoom). Is the 28-105 good? Or should I shell out a bit more for the 28-200? Thanks again! Next accessories: BP200, close up +4 (52mm), ND x4 (52mm)...Speedlite or zoom lens? (since I have the Vivitar 285HV to tahan first )Last edited by Fastbreak; 23rd August 2002 at 10:20 PM. |
|
|
#11 |
|
Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: There lor~
Posts: 4,843
|
I think you shld get a len 1st since you got a flash to tahan. Anyway, from what I heard abt the kit len, it really is bad lor but it still usable. It just that the images is as what you have said.
You might want to tell us what your budget is and then it might be better for us to give some guidelines. THe 28-105 is a great len just that it not a F2.8 which might be useful in some area(low light). Again, you might want to try the 2nd hand market to see if there is anyone selling the 28-105 if you really are interested (the last time, Tomshen has express interest to sell it ) ![]() Do join us for photoshoot and let mi know so that I can bring along the Sigma for you to try. Enjoy Photography |
|
|
|
|
#12 |
|
Guests
Posts: n/a
|
Thanks again
I would like to take part in a photo shoot too, sure. Maybe if I know your next one, I'll try my best to make it!My budget for the lens... should be less than SGD400. I know that is rather low, but I am starting slow. Can't afford to go equipment crazy, for now. BTW, any recommendations for an airtight box/dry box that can hold 2 camera bodies and 2 lenses or more? Budget low though... SGD50. Thanks! ![]() |
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
|