Who knows, in future there'll be cameras that can be connected to our brain waves via some patches wired to our forehead
Press your nose to snap, pull your ear to share on Facebook
as many said, the camera is an idiot in Aperature mode when it's low light. best to use manual in this situation. If the subject isn't moving much you can even shoot at 1/15 1/30 (if you've steady hands) iso 400 indoors with aperature of 2.8-5.6 have tried it numerous times.
No. Best to use shutter priority as he needs a fast shutter speed.Originally Posted by dennisc
He is obviously a newbie, no need to overwhelm him with manual mode where he still needs to get the metering right.
max out the iso and to heckle with the noise grains. aperture mode will work pretty ok then
Like bro Rashkae mentioned, under low light situation but you need a certain shutter speed to prevent handshake/freeze motion, then use Tv. For TS who is a newbie, he can use Tv with Auto ISO.
end of the day know the exposure triangle and your camera
my camera on auto-ISO only chooses up to 1600, in situations that are darker and using kit lens, if choose Shutter priority mode at 1/100s the Aperture number will flash and picture will only turn out underexposed
http://i46.tinypic.com/1iyxw.jpg. Can show you my card, 99% are clear. Hard to explain, still a lot for me to learn also.
Rashkae and the rest is right, shutter and flash should be best for him.
Last edited by dennisc; 19th June 2012 at 11:20 PM.
i'm a newbie too. after reading what was mentioned above, i would like to confirm one thingy. if i want to take a night scene with water and in order to get long exposure, i have to get my shutter speed eg. 30 sec and set my ISO to the lowest like 100? how about the setting for aperture?
i realised that when i shoot with f/11 with shutter 30 sec, iso100, the lighting from the buildings or street lights looks kinda blur and somehow overexposed too. but i do have have nice lighting reflection with color on the water. however, i used the same shutter and iso but up my aperture from f/11 to f/22, the lighting from the buildings and street lights are sharper with star effect. as compared to f/11, it does not produce a nice lighting reflection on the water, not as colorful as the previous aperture. is there any way to have both qualities?
Graduated ND filter or take two photos and combine together.
Canon 5D MkIII|70-200 f/2.8L IS II USM|24-70 f2.8 L II USM|Σ 50 f1.4 EX DG HSM
switch your cam to bulb mode, set to f11 or any aperture u want, iso 100, start from 30 secs or even longer then 30 secs if u got a cable release attached to your cam, if the image dun works well, change the shutter speed to 25 secs and so forth. u will definitely get a final image with the correct exposure. though time consuming, but u will learn fast next time roughly how to gauge.
There was once I was shooting a night scene of a dimly building, I wanted to blur the people walking past, but there was one single lamp post on the extreme right side of my frame. I tried many times, but while the building are Nicely lit and the people are blur, the lamp post light was over exposed
In the end I used a black card to block the slight part of the lens( where the lamp was) to reduce overexposure from that part
There is no real problem with using your method, if you still get the desired result in the end. But it could be quite time consuming, unless the "built-in light meter" in your brain is fairly accurate
The fastest way is to learn how to read your light meter, learn exactly how your ND filters work (they don't always do what they claim to be, e.g. my ND106 seems closer to 6 1/2 stops) and if you want to be sure, take a quick test shot at high ISO, wide open and leave some room for slight overexposure (to cater for changing light conditions, if necessary). If you shoot in RAW you can save some amount of highlights.There is no issue for reciprocity failure in digital so you hardly have a problem by using this method.
yup... i agree its not efficient... but after using this tikam method for a while, i roughly have a few setup in mind, so just took me 2-3 attempts to get it right.
and you are right about the ND filters... they aren't exactly want they claim to be haha... but so far after switching to LEE Big Stopper, its quite fairly accurate.