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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 111
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hi guys,
took the following pictures in macro mode. my picture does not seem to be sharp and detailed. what goes wrong? i have use spot focus at iso 200. is it too noisy or could be due to my handshake or no flash? does a filter help? thanks for your help and advice! ![]() ![]() |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 202
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Try using manual focus instead of auto focus when shooting macro.
Last edited by Howdy; 11th January 2005 at 01:27 PM. |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: In this small world
Posts: 2,042
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Your level of sharpening? I compared the FZ20 and FX7 review pictures from DPreview.com and found that the FX7 is very soft, but details retained. Once USM applied on it the FX7 picture is as sharp if not sharper than the FZ20 picture. Your 3rd picture seems to be in focus, maybe you try apply a bit USM to see if it works out good for you.
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#5 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,619
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You may want to post the following information on those shots that you have taken. f-stop, shutter speed, with/without flash, any close-up lens (if yes, what is the diopter?), focal lens used, ISO ? All these are available in the photo EXIF except for use of close-up lens. With the additional information, it will probably be easier to answer your question. Have Fun. |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Tampines
Posts: 3,315
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Always try to use a tripod when shooting macro.
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 111
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EXIF information on the pictures. thanks for all the advice
1st Pic ExposureTime - 1/250 seconds FNumber - 2.80 ISOSpeedRatings - 200 MeteringMode - Multi-segment LightSource - Auto Flash - Not fired, compulsory flash mode FocalLength - 19.70 mm ExposureMode - Auto WhiteBalance - Auto FocalLengthIn35mmFilm - 119 mm Contrast - Normal Saturation - Normal Sharpness - Normal 2nd Pic ExposureTime - 1/200 seconds FNumber - 3.30 ISOSpeedRatings - 200 MeteringMode - Multi-segment LightSource - Auto Flash - Not fired, compulsory flash mode FocalLength - 13.50 mm ExposureMode - Auto WhiteBalance - Auto DigitalZoomRatio - 0.00 x FocalLengthIn35mmFilm - 81 mm GainControl - Low gain up Contrast - Normal Saturation - Normal Sharpness - Normal 3rd Pic ExposureTime - 1/100 seconds FNumber - 2.80 ISOSpeedRatings - 200 MeteringMode - Multi-segment LightSource - Auto Flash - Not fired, compulsory flash mode FocalLength - 15.90 mm ExposureMode - Auto WhiteBalance - Auto DigitalZoomRatio - 0.00 x FocalLengthIn35mmFilm - 95 mm Contrast - Normal Saturation - Normal Sharpness - Normal 4th pic ExposureTime - 1/160 seconds FNumber - 3.30 ExposureProgram - Normal program ISOSpeedRatings - 200 MeteringMode - Multi-segment LightSource - Auto Flash - Not fired, compulsory flash mode FocalLength - 18.10 mm ExposureMode - Auto WhiteBalance - Auto FocalLengthIn35mmFilm - 109 mm Contrast - Normal Saturation - Normal Sharpness - Normal |
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#8 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 111
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i was thinking that it is likely that my ISO is set too high. i thought that by setting high, i will get to use a faster shutter speed hence would be sharper...but seem like FZ20 at iso 200 abit too much noise for macro. is that likely to be the case?
i did not use a tripod cos the ground was not really even, by the time i get into the position the butterfly would have flown off.. by the way what is USM?? unsharp mask filter in photoshop? for my post process i only do a bit of curve adjustment and cropping thats all. really thanks alot for ur comments. let me know how else i can improve my macro shots esp for FZ20. thanks guys |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 143
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The secret to Macro Photography is to use flash. For details, maybe some experts here would like to elaborate.
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Singapore
Posts: 1,043
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Hi wiki, i agree with rogersk8ter. Check out posts by tchuanye, you will see he uses a flash with a home made bounce card. With flash, you can go ahead and set the shutter to about 1/60 or 1/125. just be sure to check the flash, so as not to get too harsh a shot.
I am a cheater when shooting macro. will use the noise reduction and saturation settings in the menu.. hehehehehe
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RH |
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#11 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Tampines
Posts: 261
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Me not pro in shooting macro but I think the F2.8 it's a bit shallow. Try using F4.0 and smaller (F5.6 or F8), this will give you a greater D.O.F. Set to AP (aperture mode) and lock your focus at the F-stop. move forward and backward to get the focus and burst mode. (tripod might be useful) Add on the close-up filter will give you a
Practice, practice and practice will improve.. ![]() |
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 111
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hey guys really thanks for the advice..just a few questions...
for close up what is the picture setting that you use, eg in the sharpenss, contrast, etc. another question is which mode u used. I agree with awongkk on the use of aperature mode, but the problem with that mode is that i find it very hard to lock focus. btw how often do u use the manual focus? while i find it useful in tuning the focus, i find that sometime it take too much time (maybe lack of practice on myside). i think it is really time to invest in an external flash...i have tried to use the built in flash but the barrel kinda of block it during close up situation. btw is my composition for the picks ok? thanks for the comments! |
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Tampines
Posts: 1,862
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#14 | |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 111
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#15 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Tampines
Posts: 1,862
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Cheers John Last edited by John Teoh; 12th January 2005 at 02:25 PM. |
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,619
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As others have pointed out, F2.8 will give you a narrow depth of field. However the interesting thing to note here is, although F2.8 gives you a narrow depth of field, some part of the subject must definitely be in focus, which is not the case for the sample photo you have posted. Except for photo 2 where it seems to have focus on the water droplet at the bottom right hand corner.
To me it seems there is some focusing issue here or as the depth of field is so narrow that by the time you press the shutter your camera may have moved or your hand is really not steady at all (don't take this personally). Best way to try is, experiment on static object or flower (making sure no wind blowing at the flower) and take using hand-held and then with a tripod with the same setting. For close-up lens there are generally two types, single lens type and acromatic type. Acromatic type are better quality but more costly. As for the camera adapter, if you want to start using close-up lens, you will have to invest in one. Fixing a close-up lens to the provided Panasonic adapter is not ideal or recommended as it will be too far away from your main lens. When attaching all sorts of lens (Tele, Wide or Close-up) to get best quality it should be as close as possible to the main lens. Another thing is buying 72mm size items are generally more expensive compare to 55mm or 52mm. Another website on macro photography that you can check out is Plonsky Photography Have Fun. |
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#17 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 111
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hey tankm,
thanks alot for ur reply. i think handshake would be an issue as i maybe standing too close...will try again..another think i am suspecting is the use of spot focus...cos some of the part does not really have much detail so i wonder if i will be better using center focus instead?? btw do u think if too high noise level make the picture seem out of focus too? thanks! |
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