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Thread: Pushing/pulling film speed

  1. #1
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    Default Pushing/pulling film speed

    Hi all,
    Need to ask you all as i sometimes come across people "pushing or pulling" their film speed on their camera
    eg. Actual B&W film speed is 3200 but rated as 1600.

    1. What's the purpose?
    2. When you send to develop, how do you tell the film developrs?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member sammy888's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ah tong
    Hi all,
    Need to ask you all as i sometimes come across people "pushing or pulling" their film speed on their camera
    eg. Actual B&W film speed is 3200 but rated as 1600.

    1. What's the purpose?
    2. When you send to develop, how do you tell the film developrs?

    Thanks!
    That was a common thing some of us use to do when we want to get better or at least quicker ISO sensitivity from an existing roll of film.

    For example I am shooting a wedding. And for some reason my flash stop working. Say I am left with just my built-in flash which might not be strong enough for those long range shot thus I might need to use a slow shutter speed to compensate for the missing flash power and dimmer lighting. How do I compensate and still get reasonable picture for the rest of the night? That way would be to push my film to a higher ISO sensitivity to gain some "speed" So basically you push your film to get abit more sensitivity out of them.

    You pull process especially when you changed film in your camera for example, accidently put in ISO 200 film but your camera setting was still set for ISO 100. So now you have shot a roll that is over-expose. So if you caught it in time and know that roll of film is over exposed, you can still save it by pulling processing. Of course in these day and age...most SLR come with auto ISO detection but reading the film's container with some connectors that line the film roll bay on your SLRs. So this error is rare. IN fact pull process is seldom practice...except made from what I rad for those duplicating slides. They do that to keep the saturation and colours if I am not wrong.

    Both processing of pull or push involves spending more or less time in certain developing chemical in order to "correct" the exposure.

    The problem is...when you push or pull process. You can NOT do it as and when you like within ONE ROLL of negative. ( meaning shoot some at iso 400 and then change to ISO 800 and back) You have to PUSH the whole roll or you don't push at all. You might suffer abit more grain in your picture but not alot. As far as pushing or pulling, you normally can not exceed about twice the speed of the original film ISO. (2X ISO speed) That is why you notice people using ISO 1600 which is push to ISO 3200. And push and pull processing might not work for all brand and type of film. Some has a lower rating for this and some have wider tolerant for it.

    Also!..very important. Bring your roll to only photo shop that knows about Push or Pull processing. They have to specially adjust for the processing. Normal processing will ruin it.

    I use to do that alot because hi-speed film cost alot more in those days in the 1980s heh. Also MARKED YOUR FILM ROLL so you don't forget! Push or pull processing a roll of normal film might also ruin it.
    Last edited by sammy888; 6th January 2005 at 12:37 AM.

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    Sammy,
    Thanks for the informative reply. Many books touch on the pushing and pulling part but don't really spend much to expain it.

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    Senior Member sammy888's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ah tong
    Sammy,
    Thanks for the informative reply. Many books touch on the pushing and pulling part but don't really spend much to expain it.

    hey..no problem...glad to throw in my two cents when I can spare the time

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    fantastic. your 2 cents converted to my currency is normally few hundred dollars.

    thanks for sharing! Have always wanted to try shooting in film but just not confident enough. Too used to having instant reviews.
    “How fortunate for leaders that men do not think.” - Adolf Hitler

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    sammy,

    Forgot to ask you, any shops do you recommend to develop your films?

  7. #7
    Senior Member sammy888's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ah tong
    sammy,

    Forgot to ask you, any shops do you recommend to develop your films?
    wah...almost did not check back with this thread since I thought all answer are done and everyone had gone on their merry way heheh..

    I have not push process in ages man. I use to send to those semi-pro lab like RGB. I am shooting digital now...have been for quite a few years so I am abit out of touch. I believe that photoshop at Adelphi at Coleman Street would have that service. I use to send my stuff there to process my slides and negs. They are pretty pro with their work. I think they should have push processing services. It is located on the ground floor....next to the OCBC bank if I am not wrong. I think most folks here would know which one this is.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by ah tong
    sammy,

    Forgot to ask you, any shops do you recommend to develop your films?
    Got to tell you though you will have to pay extra to push your films . Which part of Singapore are you at? At every part of Singapore (almost) there are some pretty good shops .

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    Quote Originally Posted by blurblock
    Got to tell you though you will have to pay extra to push your films . Which part of Singapore are you at? At every part of Singapore (almost) there are some pretty good shops .
    I am staying at serangoonn central, working in Outram Park area.

  10. #10

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    I "pull process" ALL THE TIME! I seldom "push process" because the type of photography I do seldom requires me to "push process". If I need to shoot at a high ASA, I may chose eg Delta 3200 and shoot it at 2000 or 1600, again "pull process".

    I "pull process" because I WANT TO "OVEREXPOSE" MY NEGATIVES.

    For example, I rate my Ilford Pan F at ASA 25 instead of 50. I rate Tri-X 320 at 160. I rate my Ilford FP4 at ASA 64 instead of 125. And I rate my Ilford HP5 at 160 instead of 400.

    This way I "OVEREXPOSED" my negatives and get very nice negatives with beautiful details in the shadows areas.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by student
    I "pull process" ALL THE TIME! I seldom "push process" because the type of photography I do seldom requires me to "push process". If I need to shoot at a high ASA, I may chose eg Delta 3200 and shoot it at 2000 or 1600, again "pull process".

    I "pull process" because I WANT TO "OVEREXPOSE" MY NEGATIVES.

    For example, I rate my Ilford Pan F at ASA 25 instead of 50. I rate Tri-X 320 at 160. I rate my Ilford FP4 at ASA 64 instead of 125. And I rate my Ilford HP5 at 160 instead of 400.

    This way I "OVEREXPOSED" my negatives and get very nice negatives with beautiful details in the shadows areas.
    if you rate Ilford HP5 at 160 instead of 400 but you develop normally (at 400), I don't think that's called pull process. I do that all the time with my slides, and no additional charges from the processing lab, since it's a normal developing.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by popeye
    if you rate Ilford HP5 at 160 instead of 400 but you develop normally (at 400), I don't think that's called pull process. I do that all the time with my slides, and no additional charges from the processing lab, since it's a normal developing.

    You are right that strictly speaking that is not called "pull process" because I do not reduce the processing time. That is why I wrote my post with the terms in "..".

    In fact I decide where I want my negatives to be and develop them according. I only "pull process" if I want to control the highlights, in scenes where there is excessive contrast, and sometimes the "pulling process" can be very severe. But "pull process" because of "wrong" ASA rating as suggested by Sammy888, is not something I bothered with.

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