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| Underwater Photography All things nautically & photographically related. Dive in!! |
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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 320
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Asking some questions on macro photography which I posted on fins. Repost here as there seems to be more photogs here
Was at hantu yesterday with my new inon macro lens, Forgot to bring my optic fibre cable for my strobe! So I let the internal strobe uncovered. Turned out pretty well as my subjects were pretty evenly lit compared to using the external strobe alone which casts strong shadows. By changing the slave strength I could also manually control the strength of the internal strobe. Do you guys prefer just using the external strobe only or internal + external? I find that not much difference in backscatter, maybe my strobe placement still very bad. Also I was experimenting with the focus range and magnification of the inon lens with my camera in macro mode, found that the range which my camera could achieve focus is very limited. Too near cannot, too far also cannot. Anyone have any idea how to calculate the focus distance in wide angle and 3/4 telephoto? And what distance to max the advantages of the lens. ( i have since read that the closest I can get is 6.5cm at full zoom, but is that the best setting?) Cannot take wide angle shots also as they will be totally blur =( Some more the inon lens got no hole to thread a string so if I unscrew it to take a wide angle shot may drop the lens, how to deal with this problem. Lastly, is it necessary to intentionally let water flood in between the housing and lens since there are some small holes already to let water in? Thanks if anyone can help with any of my questions! |
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#2 | |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 897
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You need to move the strobe as far from the lens as you can, making sure the strobe light is not 90 degrees into the lens port, or your back scatter is still the same. Most likely it's strobe placement. If it's a S&S standard flexi arm Andrew sold you, mot likely, it;s not long enough, causing this problem. Get ULCS arms if you can afford. good and last damn long and can grow with almost all systems you have later on. Make sure when you are using the lens, do not use S.Macro. Macro will be more then enough. I can get as close as 2-3 cm from the object with the inon UCL165. I find there is not need for macro function, just zoom in will be more the enough. For the distance, sorry, not that technical. Yes, with the macro lens, cannot take WA. shots. Sometimes I forget too. As for pouch, just go army market, get a <$10 neoprene pouch, attach to your BC or flexi arm or tray. So when you remove the macro lens, can store in pouch and also can protect it from scratches back on land when soaking with other cameras and on the boat. Get a zipped pouch, velcro ones, might come undone. Sometimes, you need to unscrew a little to flood the lens as the air does not escape properly or it takes too long to completely flood. There are 3 or 4 tiny slots that allow water to go in and drain, if you noticed. |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 897
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 320
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Hi,
Thanks for your reply. The S&S flex arm has an extra extension so its pretty long, still getting backscatter though. Still trial and error stage. Find that the strobe casts a very strong shadow as well for those 2-3cm distance subjects. So you mean using macro mode, zoom in all the way and still can be 2-3 cm away? After 1 trip the lens bezel got scratch liao from trying to get close and level with the subjects =( |
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 738
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u can try getting some tyre tubbing to wrap around it. that shld prevent/minimise the scratches...
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 441
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i have a WHOLE TYRE worth of tubing. who needs? haha.
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 320
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when got hantu trip again! me want to diveeeeeeeee
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#8 | |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 897
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without macro mode, I still can be 2-3 cm away. Scratch is ok, but just not the glass. Light scratches are ok though. |
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