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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 512
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Hi
Went to SBWR to do some testing.. The shots here are test shots and not meant to be any nature photo potrait. All photos were taken at ISO 400 unless otherwise stated. ISO 800 should only be used in desperation. All shots were taken in RAW and a shutter speed above 1/300. Aperature was set by the camera. There is a limit to the quality of the photos it seems.. all photos have to be reduced by 30% to produce acceptable quality.. I could be doing something wrong but I dont think so. The 'stains' on the CCD showed up on one of the photos. The 2X crop factor was not too helpful as photos taken at full 200MM zoom has a limit, I think you need to limit the subject to fill 1/2 your viewfinder before it can yield anything useful. All photos had to be reduced 30% . USM and cropped to Clubsnap size before being posted. Full 200MM zoom. ![]() Green Pigeon at the entrance to the SBWR ![]() Waders flying in tight formation ![]() Butterfly closeup ![]() Painted Stork at ISO800 - not very good ![]() Large Bee End of part 1 |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 512
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Part 2
====== ![]() White Belly about to grab fish flying in front of me. Sun was reaching 11.15 PM so shots are getting difficult ![]() Today I counted over 60 or more painted storks flying in formation.. Too bad it was 12.30 PM and the sun was in the way but as you can see the Aperature happened to be F22 and the stains on the CCD showed up May not be very visible to you but it is in Oly Master raw mode in the original format. ![]() At ISO 400 there is visible noise on the kingfisher when the surrounding is dark. So Switch back to iso 100/200 for these kinds of shots. Conclusion I wish for the faster focus of the E1 and the very good ISO 400 on the E300 on the future E2. Auto focus is not very fast and the camera can get Occasionally 'jammed' and focused is out - you need to force re-focus but the subject has flown away. Wakeup from Standby is very slow, I missed some great opportunities. When you take birds with white feathers, adjusting EV is very difficult as you need to press the EV and then swing the thumbwheel. Adjusting flash compensation is also very difficult. The E300 is an excellent Macro and closeup camera and great for taking stationary objects Oly master user interface is not too well designed,, no instant preview before applying changes. You need to know how the E300 performs in different situations before venturing out. best is to write down your discoveries on a small notepad laminate it and go use it. The progammed Shutter+/- mode is not useful at all, in fact it is confusing - you cannot set it back to neutral easily and if your camera goes on standby it reset to neutral. The reading does not show if it is 2 shutter + or - below what the firmware has selected. After each shot is taken you need to wait until it writes to the card then you press the play key then you can zoom in and out. This is downright DUMB, why not have it so that when the photo is written allow me to zoom in/out as long as the photo is displayed without having to press the play button first? This makes it very difficult to adjust for changing light conditions.. as it is very annoying to "shoot, wait, play , check." For what I paid for it, on a scale of 1 to 10 I give it a 6.5.. I am not sure if I should even look toward an E2 because the 50-200 is too short in range for animal photography. Unless Oly comes out with a cheaper non WX proof lens soon, its not going to be justified. I am not sure how it performs with a TC so that could be my next test. Regds Allan Last edited by Allan Teo; 19th December 2004 at 09:36 PM. |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 346
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picx look very noisy. and the kingfisher one looks very purple. is it the fault of the cam?
maybe if you used lower iso settings the pix will look less noisy. however the macro shots looks good =) |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Singapore
Posts: 995
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That's quite informative review Alan. ISO performance is really disappointing, cannot match the competition. These days ppl are looking at clean ISO800.
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 346
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does the E300 have that noise reduction system thingy?
Allen, did you turn that on? |
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#6 | |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 747
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I too find the metering hopeless..as it cuts sensing after a short period of time & to initialise it is a PAIN . As for shooting wildlife eps birds in flight, a 200mm lens is not enough to get real close. I suppose a 500mm~ 600mm would be more suited, but they are costly & difficult to handle due to weight issues. ![]() |
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#7 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 512
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it was displayed 1:1, the Green Pigeon was in focus but blurry and it was only on a branch overhanging the road! 1 storey high.. I had to shrink the image to get some detail back... I am beginning to SUSPECT that this camera's CCD is actually 4MP but extrapolated to 8MP, According the DPreview forum people say that the 8800 is also 4MP extrapolated to 8. and they ask people to shoot at 3MP.. to get more detail. Anyway I need to do more test.. I will be testing to C-AF as according to my E1 owner friend the camera will track the subject. C-AF on the D70+80-400 lens is hopeless as the lens is too slow. But the 50-200 should be fast enough.. Will post the updates later. Allan |
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#8 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 512
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noise reduction being done in the camera , EVEN when photos are taken in RAW. However the software goes NUTS, when it encounters a bird in a dark spot.. You notice that all the 'outdoor' closeup ,ISO400 photos are very good.. Noise reduction on the camera is only for 'long exposure' these shot were taken in 1/500 -- 1/1250 speed. Allan |
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#9 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 512
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ISO 400 are fantastic at CLOSE SUNLIT objects but horrible when subject is hidden in dark areas. If you use ISO < 400 it is very DIFFICULT to photograph flying birds since the shutter is at least 1/500 and the ISO 200 ? It will come out dark unless the sun is SUPER BRIGHT.. it was dark cloudly today. Allan |
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#10 |
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Deregistered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Singapore
Posts: 6,674
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um, did you buy the camera just to testdrive it?
how come you ended up with f/22 shooting birds in daylight? |
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#11 | |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 747
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I will run a more indept test when I have the time. |
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Singapore
Posts: 470
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Looking at the photos, I think it is better off getting a Pansonic FZ10/FZ20.
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#13 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 512
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sensor. If you read my initial note all aperature is set by the CAMERA not by me. I control the shutter speed.. When the shutter speed is set at say 1/800 and the sun suddenly comes out, the aperature must MAX out if the photo is not to be overexposed.. Allan |
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#14 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 512
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objects, the MENU system on the panasonic is no where near what you need.. it would be a hindrance. To shoot stationary objects or slow moving ones, I think you can still cope but the noise on the FZ10 sensor is not what I like to see. There are two kinds of 'noise' in digital camera , Noise that can be CANNOT be seen on printed photos and noise that can be seen on electronic screens.. Since I rarely print my photos, almost all noise annoys me. Allan |
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#15 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Woodlands
Posts: 961
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The FZ10 is a nice PnS camera but its menu system is totally crap. Its so hard just to change anything.
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#16 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,206
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