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Thread: Setting for Wedding dinner

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by satan_18349
    I was saying that unless he plans to overwrites the filmspeed range
    , if not the camera will be set to according to the DX coding.
    Not to mention shooting 2 ISO settings with 1 roll, then, how to process?!?!? Push half go over, don't push half go under... I think he should stick to ISO 400?

  2. #22
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    i think satan and flare dun get wad i meant..
    do read my post carefully,i'm only advising him to play with the ISO setting on the flash,the ISO setting on the camera stays the same throughout..
    ISO 100 on the flash if he decide to bounce,ISO400 if he decide not to bounce..

  3. #23

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    i use a bounce card usu throught the dinner...unless the lighining conditions are really bad. Prepare for more batteries on hand. The flash may become slow in recharging in the middle of the dinner.

    Kex is right in adjusting the iso on the flash...alteratively, what i do is to do a flash compensation. i usu do it by overposing by one stop...this should help the light lost due to bouncing.

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by kex
    i think satan and flare dun get wad i meant..
    do read my post carefully,i'm only advising him to play with the ISO setting on the flash,the ISO setting on the camera stays the same throughout..
    ISO 100 on the flash if he decide to bounce,ISO400 if he decide not to bounce..
    it would be better to adjust the FEC instead of iso on flash. that's what FEC is created for.
    bounce or no bounce, the exposure of the photo will be the same if ettl is used

    EOS Flash Bible

  5. #25

    Default My settings will be..

    I set to ISO 400, P mode ,AF, Multi segment metering , TTL metering for Flash and a bounce card (big one with velcro).- for activities shooting .

    Remove the white card for table shootings. The rest keep the same as above.

    It will do, it will do just fine. The rest is up to the lab.

  6. #26

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    forget abt fooling around with the flash iso. For canon, even if you set the camera to M, the flash exposure will still be ETTL. Changing the flash iso only works if you set the Sigma flash to full manual. In any case, setting your film iso at 400 and flash iso at 100 will reuslt in 2 stops overexposure....thats a lot and will guarantee your table shots compose of white snow men! you probably will not realise this unless you are shooting digital because the $300,000 Fuji machine can compensate for overexposure beyond your wildest dreams...

    4get abt using the stofen and the bonce card together....the sigma flash cannot cope...choose one....i would go for the bounce card unless the ceiling is too high.....

    at sufficiently wide focal lengths.....i.e.,20-24mm i find f4.0-5.6 will provide enough DOF.

    remember to use FEL if you have the luxury of time. On the 30, i think that the FEL only links to the center AF point so do take note of that. if u are worried by flash underexposure from the white table cloth etc...FEC by +1/3 to +1/2 stop....shutter speed can be down to 1/30 unless you have been boozing with the groom hahahaha!

    happy shooting and enjoy your equipment!

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by GitS
    forget abt fooling around with the flash iso. For canon, even if you set the camera to M, the flash exposure will still be ETTL. Changing the flash iso only works if you set the Sigma flash to full manual. In any case, setting your film iso at 400 and flash iso at 100 will reuslt in 2 stops overexposure....thats a lot and will guarantee your table shots compose of white snow men! you probably will not realise this unless you are shooting digital because the $300,000 Fuji machine can compensate for overexposure beyond your wildest dreams...
    y would the flash exposure be still ETTL? when the camera is set at manual mode and the sigma is set at ISO 100 auto ?
    u mean i can't use the canon camera for studio at all for high key effect if setting the camera at manual mode still get override by the camera ETTL ?

    y would setting the camera ISO 400 and bounce the flash in a ballroom @ ISO 100 result in 2 stops overexposure ?
    I shoot countless events in ballroom last time with film with good results..
    Never produce any white snow men in my photo.
    i do my own printing last time with my noritsu optical printer and now a digital one,never had a problem leh..

  8. #28

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    thats why i said the flash must be set at manuel mode (or "auto" mode, where you can set the output or aperture manually), else any ettl compatible flash (like the sigma) will still revert to ettl when attaqched to the hotshoe in default mode. in a studio flash setup, the flash power is controlled by your studio flash (which is not ettl compatible) and its not attached to the hotshoe ( i hope not! hahaha!) the camera simply triggers the studio strobe.

    re-read your post again..i guess you were referring to changing the iso setting (alternative would be to change the flash aperture) when bouncing flash so i stand corrected in this instance. sorry lah, didn't read prperly!!

    but in general, your suggestion is not a rule of thumb, although the distance to the ceiling and back down to the subject probably (i think) equates to a 2 stop more burst from the flash for a general wedding table shot - reverts back to the basic GN calculation. different subject to camera and celing height would change the compensation need according to the formula right?

    the noritsu or fuji printers can scan at different intensities so printing out the resulting photo should be no problem after correcting the density, that why photogs shooting print film previously had no idea how much their flash exposure was off...try shooting jpeg and you know what i mean....hehehe!

  9. #29
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    that's y i said in a ballroom..u ever been in a ballroom with low ceiling ?i advise him to set it to 400 and use it straight on if he isn't sure about exposure compensation. mah..

    so u mean those photographers who uses film for so many yrs are all ignorant about the flash exposure?
    have u operated or own one printing machine?i have one,but i didn't know that it can scan at diff intensity..
    i do shoot jpeg as well,works fine for me..

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by locksley
    Hi Ppl

    going to help my buddy with his wedding (save cost)
    I will be using EOS 30 with Tamron 24-135 + Sigma 500 super

    May I have any tips from the experts here on:
    1. what setting for the group fotos ?
    2. how to prevent reflection from the lazy suzie on the table
    3. should I use direct flash or stofen or bounce card ?
    4. ANything to take note ?

    Reagrds
    Locksley
    try using the Fuji Press 800, it's quite a useful film for indoors. the wide angle end of the tamron lens (24mm) should take care of the tight shots, especially moving table to table. you really got to have an idea of how bright or dim the ambient lighting is going to be although it's safe if you can get the people and the background to be within 1 stop of each other. what i normally do is to expose for the ambient light while using the flash in automatic mode. wouldn't really bounce the flash off the ceiling unless it's really low and white. direct flash works fine for me, sometimes with -1 compensation on the aperture, sometimes not but it doesn't make much of a difference when you're shooting on negatives. you might want to try using a flash bracket to bring the flash off axis of the lens to avoid red-eye effect. perhaps the most important thing you can do now is to go to the place in advance, shoot & print a roll to find out how the lighting will be like. if you can't, a good simulator would be shooting in your own room at night with the room lights turned on. the good thing is that you're working with negatives, which gives you more latitude.

    cheers
    Andrew

  11. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by kex
    that's y i said in a ballroom..u ever been in a ballroom with low ceiling ?i advise him to set it to 400 and use it straight on if he isn't sure about exposure compensation. mah..
    yah i know, told you i didn;t read your post closely already hehehe!

    Quote Originally Posted by kex
    so u mean those photographers who uses film for so many yrs are all ignorant about the flash exposure?
    have u operated or own one printing machine?i have one,but i didn't know that it can scan at diff intensity..
    i do shoot jpeg as well,works fine for me..
    i didn't say they were ignorant, i said they had no idea how much their exposre was off...i.e., 1/2 stop? 1 stop? 2 stops?

    on the printer issue, i was referr to the adjustment of the density on screen before sending the photo out to the print tray, u do that for your clients dun you?

  12. #32
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    For negative, you need to overexpose it by ONE STOP, so my F90x is +1, my SB28 is +1 also (for indoor only, regardless day or night, outdoor mostly 0 of -1 to -2) I learn this in a hardway.

    If you shoot film, ask the lab tech how is your neg? you can get the print out doesn't mean your neg is nicely exposed, Kex please correct me if I'm wrong.

  13. #33

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    you are right catchlights..i learnt it the very hard way years ago.....for film under such circumstances, the mantra is: overexpose slightly (it can always be corrected by the lab), underexpose and you are dead as a dog on a rainy day in the river....

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by catchlights
    For negative, you need to overexpose it by ONE STOP, so my F90x is +1, my SB28 is +1 also (for indoor only, regardless day or night, outdoor mostly 0 of -1 to -2) I learn this in a hardway.

    If you shoot film, ask the lab tech how is your neg? you can get the print out doesn't mean your neg is nicely exposed, Kex please correct me if I'm wrong.
    optical printing adjust the brightness by adding exposure time to the print in up to 9 or 10 stops,we call it density correction..
    they more density correction we do the more details will be blown out..

    Gits,we do the density adjustment on negatives on optical prints too..

    for digital,adjusting the density is done digitally,not by the intensity of the scanning process.

    for optical printing of negatives,it is acheived by lengthening the exposure time of the negs..

    Through experience,i find that negatives produce best results when overexposed abit and printed at normal,+1 or +2 density..when u - the density,the overall look will be high key effect for outdoor and reduced contrast and added grain indoor..

    Have a nice day!

  15. #35
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    Hi,

    I too will be going to be shooting for my buddy next july (save $$ )

    Anyway, I've just attended a wedding dinner and the photog used bounce card for all the situation except for the table to table shots and the toasting (yam seng) where he used direct all the way. Why huh?
    “How fortunate for leaders that men do not think.” - Adolf Hitler

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by GitS
    you are right catchlights..i learnt it the very hard way years ago.....for film under such circumstances, the mantra is: overexpose slightly (it can always be corrected by the lab), underexpose and you are dead as a dog on a rainy day in the river....
    Err... for negative, you need to expose for the shadow for retains details in shadow, and mostly people dial up +1 will be fine.

  17. #37

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    u are absolutely right!

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by yanyewkay
    Hi,

    I too will be going to be shooting for my buddy next july (save $$ )

    Anyway, I've just attended a wedding dinner and the photog used bounce card for all the situation except for the table to table shots and the toasting (yam seng) where he used direct all the way. Why huh?
    That’s individual shooting styles, some use direct flash, some use ceiling bounce, big bounce card, omni bounce or whatever.
    You must know the results they produce and the limitation on certain situation, and decide what and when to use it.
    I use bounce whenever I am able to, battery power is not an issue to me, as for the photographer you mention, I’m not sure, maybe he need to conserve battery power or need to rapid fire.

  19. #39
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    Thanks Guys !!
    Really learnt alot

    Someone did mentioned shooting at F8 for tableshooting
    is it ok ?
    Will my exposure be under ?

  20. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by locksley
    Thanks Guys !!
    Really learnt alot

    Someone did mentioned shooting at F8 for tableshooting
    is it ok ?
    Will my exposure be under ?

    Yes it will, unless you use direct flash...... or you have a absolutely powerful flashlight

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