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Thread: Architectural and Interior

  1. #21
    Senior Member Kit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Upper Bukit Timah

    Default Re: Architectural and Interior

    Quote Originally Posted by ravon11 View Post
    Hi All,

    Would like to have some advice form more experienced photographers around.
    I am new into photography and doing as a hobby. I am kinda interested in trying out architectural shots of buildings (houses, church etc). I also feel like doing residential interior shots (like those we can see in interior design magazines).
    I am currently using a nikon d90 couple with kit 18-55 and 24-75 f2.8 and looking to upgrade.

    1) As a DX body, doing architectural, what kind of budget WA lens can i get? Do u think i can start from a 17-50mm?
    2) Any tips for taking architectural or interior shots?

    I am doing as a hobby so i don't want to spend 3/4 of my months pay on a lens. I wana start simple and upgrade. I also like to be versatile to have a zoom rather than a prime. Unless, of cos if the prime is better than the zoom in many ways..?
    Thanks for your advise.
    Architectural and interior photography is a genre which at times, requires specialised equipment. If you are doing this for a living, a basic DSLR setup would easily cost you $20k. However if you are not making a living out of it, there are cheaper options but will probably still cost you in the region of $1k and above. There is no need for you to get tilt/shift lenses which alone can cost more than your existing setup. Further, I wouldn't encourage you to use tile/shuft lenses on a DX body because of optical and physical constraints. You wouldn't be able to utilise them fully. A decent wide angle lens like the Nikkor 10-24mm or equivalents from Tokina and Sigma will suffice. Wide angles do give you perspective distortions but depending on how you manage these distortions, they can be an added advantage.

    Like what Benjamin said, a good set of tripod is essential to assist you to line up your verticals and horizons which is critical in architectural and interior photography. In essence, the tripod should be able to support the weight of your heaviest setup with ease but still light enough for you to haul around. You will need a tripod head as well. Ideally, geared heads are preferred because you can make very minute and precise adjustments with them but they cost anything from $400 to $2500. 3-way pan heads are a cheaper option and they still provide fairly precise adjustments. A Manfrotto 141RC should cost less than $200. On top of that, a $10hotshoe mounted leveller will help you align your verticals and horizons.

    There are too many things to watch out for in architectural and interior photography, we won't be able to cover everything here. I'd suggest you read up on some books dedicated to this genre of photography.

  2. #22

    Default Re: Architectural and Interior

    Quote Originally Posted by coolthought View Post
    the reason for 1.5m off ground, is so that you can point the camera straight. It is just one the way to manage distortion. You might also shoot without going widest if it allow.

    "not much diff in F11-F22 and beyond" in a way he is correct. You probably should find out where is the aperture "sweet spot"(sharpest) of the lens. Another thing to take note is diffraction when shooting in very small aperture. Go find out at which aperture when diffraction will be observable. Whether shooting at f8 or f16 and you don't see much difference is probably because your subjects are quite faraway and you do not have a foreground. However, when you are shooting indoor, it is quite likely you have objects that might be quite close to the camera. You might get things at the furthest or nearest end, oof. There are dof calculator iphone apps that will allow you to find out at which aperture that will allow you to capture everything in focus.

    the flash are for interior shots. it is probably easier if you can google for interior photography lighting as they are able to explain better. Generally, what you will be trying to achieve is a properly lighted room with accurate color rendition(or either warm or cold color), contrasty but no harsh shadow. And especially when you try to capture a shot of the interior with windows showing how the outside looks like.

    Alternatively, You can do interior without any flashes provided it is well lighted and with a good sturdy tripod for a longer exposure.

    Hi, Thanks for the enlightenment.
    I will look up where my lens 'sweet spot' is and also read up on diffraction of the lens..
    The flashes for interior, i can understand. I am not going professionally, so might not need it now..

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