Correct me if I'm wrong, Pic#2 was taken in Aperture Priority, not in Manual mode.
You may want to try taking in Manual mode with the same setting, i.e. f/5.6, 1/60 to see if same problem persists.
Hmm guys sorry if I post on the wrong thread, but just to clarify some of my doubts, what is the use of TTL for external speedlite or flash? How does it really affect the picture? Can anyone show some pictures comparing both. Thanks to those who reply me.
Cheap lenses are not good AND Good lenses are not cheap!
perhaps the camera measured the distance to the subject the first time around
then the second time around, it measured further back?
Bro u took continuous shots is it? Must allow e flash to recharge first before taking e next shot. Otherwise e flash output will be weaker due to e lower charge..
- slow recycle time? common in budget flash guns (according to the website, this model's recycle time is 0.5 - 8 secs)
- flash not powerful enough? use M mode, set to max aperture, slower shutter speed (i.e. 1/80) and bump up iso (i.e. 400 - 800)
last but not least,
- faulty unit with inaccurate TTL? make sure u've addressed all of the above and take a few shots using the same settings. if u get inconsistent results, its possible that the flash is simply faulty and the TTL is inaccurate / inconsistent.
don't keep switching between auto and manual on your camera - that just makes it impossible to determine the actual problem. just shoot in M mode and determine if the flash is not powerful enough, or if the TTL is inconsistent and faulty.
Looks like you are using a non-dedicated flash that may not be fully compatible. When its not fully compatible, means that the flash itself may not support the pre-flash function that most or infact all dedicated digital camera flashes for DSLR would behave like. In DSLR, the flash needs to do an instantaneous preflash prior to the flash for the actual exposure. Some non-dedicated flashes made my third party which claims to support TTL my not be able to support the pre-flash. When I say pre-flash...it means that prior to a shot, it will go like "Fire(pre-flash)"-"Fire(actual flash affecting exposure)". (FYI - in the film days, you dont need pre-flash TTL as the light sensor measures the light bouncing form the film surface. In DLSR, you cant do this as the sensor surface is glass ) The preflash is measured by the sensor sitting below the two way flip up mirror. The actual flash is then for the actual shot when the mirror is up. For non-dedicated non-compatible flash, unless you can dial in the power (i.e change power of flash output), working in the M mode is the way to go. You can also work by distance based on the guide number of the flash itself in combination with the shutter speed and aperture. But watch out for the mas sync speed of the camera else you will get non-correct exposure.
In the photo examples you posted, you mentioned that in auto mode, the image always turn out bad (unlit). Thats true. Its probably unlit to begin with. The flash could have fired the first part of the pre-flash but the second part of the flash there isn't any flash. Based on the EXIF value of the shot taken in the auto mode - if you pluck the Aperture and shutter value in M(manual) mode and then try the shot again in M mode, you should get different result - in this case brighter picture perhaps.
basically they just buy the 1st party flashes, open them up and reverse engineered these original flashes into their own.
compatibility problems will arise when using an older 3rd party flash on a newer camera body.
not really related to your issue here but just FYI.