Originally Posted by mcn
Good morning,
Am contemplating either the Manfrotto 190D (max ht 145cm, w/out ctr column 116cm) or the 055CL max ht 178cm, w/out ctr column 135cm).
How important is the height of the tripod with regard to a person's height? (I'm at 175cm). Would it be too awkward to stoop down to the 190D height?
Thank you.
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I'm going to off you a slightly different insight in to tripods, rather than recommend a single brand or model it's far better for you to go out and try a few tripods and settle with the one
you prefer using.
I'm a tripod whore by nature. I have zero brand allience as no single brand makes the perfect single tripod for all occasions. In the past 30 years or so I've owned over 100 tripods and currently own tripods and pentapods by Manfrotto, Sachtler, Velbon and Miller.
My critera for a good tripod:
1) Stability (critical)
2) Anti-vibration qualities (critical)
3) Load carrying capacity (critical)
4) height range (lowest to highest)
5) Leg lock and operational issues
6) Construction quality / durability
7) Spare parts availablity
8) Weight
9) Cost
For the purposes of the rest of this post, I will be referring to tripods / pentapods for field use, as opposed to specialised studio use.
Looking at the criteria, stability and anti-vibration qualities are of paramount importance. There's no point in buying a tripod that is not stable when shooting under adverse conditions in the field. This means the tripod should possess not only good stability when shooting with the longest lens you own (or are going to use) but should also have good damping qualities, so that any wind or ground generated vibration isn't passed on to the camera and that longer lenses won't vibrate excessively. If you choose well you should be able to take images in all but the most horrific weather conditions with ease.
Many amateurs eschew the use of leg braces, as they prefer the concept individually adjustable leg angles. While adjustable leg angles is very useful for use against walls or on uneven ground, leg braces when implemented properly offer greater tripod stability as they provide a second triangle of support. Some tripods like the Manfrotto 075, 058, 16MkII, offer the best of both worlds, with adjustable leg braces and angles.
Load carrying capacity is also critical. Many people overload their tripod legs, which can result in not only a shortened life of the legset but also failure at a critical moment. To work out your maximum load, add up the weights of the following: Camera body, largest lens and TC, flash with batteries, the ballhead or tripod head weight, quick release plates etc. Once you've added all of the weights together add 10-20% as a safety margin. If you're planning on purchasing a larger lens in the next year or two add that weight in as well as there's no point in saving a few dollars now only to have to replace the tripod in a few months time.
Height is another critical area. I've yet to see a tripod that can extend to say 2m and down to ground zero. There's almost always a tradeoff here between minimum height and maximum height. I can only say that the maximum height is a personal decision, but I do recommend a tripod that will take the camera to eye-level while standing normally. The type of centre column fitted comes in to play here. Many are quite light and flimsy. Some like those found on the professional large Manfrotto tripods are hexagonally shaped and helically geared and have a zero slip design with extremely positive locking.
Leg locking methods are another personal choice, some folks like flip levers, others rotationg leg locks and some prefer automatic leg extenders. Which ever choice you make ensure that the locks are study and will survive constant use. It's also very important to actually enjoy using a tripod, if there are things that annoy you in the shop when trying out a tripod or head, chances are after 6 months of use you'll really hate it with a passion.
Construction and quality vary from brand to brand and model to model. For example, consumer tripods aimed at the occasional or casual user will not have the same level of attention to detail or material quality as a tripod intended for professional use in harsh environments. One of the standing jokes in the professional photography world is the use of the term "PRO" on tripods. Few are really professional grade and most simply don't have the weight carrying capacity to swing a professional body, ballhead and lens, at most they are good for a modest amateur body, an 80-200/2.8 lens and flash. On the other hand some highly respected professional tripods such as the wooden units from Miller look quite amateurish when compared to the glittering polished aluminum and black gloss finish of some amateur tripods. Looks mean nothing with a good tripod, it's all in the durability and quality of materials used, construction methods and so on.
Spare parts availability can be critical if you damage your tripod, many cheaper manufacturers simply don't carry spares. The better tripod manufacturers usually insist that their local distributors carry spare parts.
Weight is the bug bear of tripods. Unless you are prepared to spend thousands of dollars on a set of Sachtler "sticks" a.k.a. a pentapod (video tripod) you really won't get a lightweight (2.2kg) legset that can carry a large load (50kg) with excellent damping and stability in all weather conditions. The down side is such a legset is going to set you back around 3.5-4K USD for a basic setup and closer to 5-6K by the time you factor in a head, adapters and other accessories. So coming back to the real world, weight is pretty critical, heavy legsets are more stable, especially in windy conditions and offer better load carrying, but do you really want to lug around a 8.5+ kg tripod and head. Probably not if your Asian. Yes if you are a masochistic Ang Moh like me.
Cost - There's no point in putting a 300 buck camera on a 6,000 buck tripod/head combination so set a realistic budget based on your actual rather than perceived needs. To come out with a realistic figure start by working out the weight you need to carry and then examine legsets in that price range. Repeat with the tripod head and any quick release system you might be interested in. Set realistic budgets for a ballhead and QR system if you are going to go that route. You really don't need an Arca B1 or Graf Studioball unless you are swinging medium format gear or long lenses, chances are an Acratech would be a better bet and it will save you a few hundred dollars and be lighter too.
In conclusion:
The best advice is to take your gear down to a good camera shop and try out as many tripods as you can, get a feel for what's available and then purchase on what you like to use and what you consider to be good value for money.