Wide angle FX prime

[george671]

I think I addressed several of your points earlier.

1. In a party setting, I don't think f/8 or more is likely. You can pump up ISO to the max. I know the D700 is very capable. But still, to pump it to the max just do that you can achieve f/8? Is that wise?

2. TS is talking about handing over his camera to casual friends at a party. When you mix all these variables together, the chance for failure is way to high.

3. A slight twist of the focus dial by a tipsy party goer or just when passing the camera is all it takes to turn a finely tuned focus to out of focus.

Just use a flash.....

[george671]

Currently owns a d700 with a 24-70mm f2.8.

But am thinking of getting a wide angle prime for party and event shots as my camera usually gets passed around my friends during parties. And 24-70 mm is too precious to get passed around. Budget is around $500 for a second hand lens. Am looking at the 20mm f2.8.

What do you guys think?

You are on the right track bro...Just buy the AF 20mm f2.8 Nikon and a small flash....

[Kit]

I think you got me confussed with someone else...I did not comment on whether anyone should hand over his or her camera to a friend...I usually preset the camera and then my friends take the picture,,,They are smart enough to not play with the focus ring....And as far as Hyperfocal distance goes, you can argue till you are blue in the face, but in reality it works just fine...Just go try it...Nuff said...This is a silly argument anyway!! IF TS has the budget, He should just buy the nikon AF 20m F2.8 and be done with it...Or do like I do and cary a small point and shoot to give to friends at the party...I use manual focus glass all the time...Mainly because I do a lot of cross mounting and also because some of the sharpest glass on the planet is not available in AF...(Zeiss, Voigtleander, some old Nikkors, leica, etc...) I also cross mount and use manual mode focus on my M4/3 olympus gear as well...And God Forbid,,,I also incorporate the Hyperfocal distance in many instances...If AF is the only way for you to be happy than Rock on Brother!!!

80% of my work are done with either a PC-E 24mm or a TS-E 17mm. Both are manual lenses if you are wondering.

Just trying to clarify that Hyper Distance only serves as a guide, not a solution and it's definitely not appropriate in this instance.

[Cowseye]

Ah sorry, didn't read his purpose properly... Should even recommend the two lenses at all. Pardon me :P

[CorneliusK]

Get a D800 and set it to AF-Face recognition priority (I'm not serious)

[blue_kelvinsg]

Hi all, I'm the TS. Actually my intention was to use my D700 with the 20mm f2.8 and my SB900.

Anyway I have bought the 20mm already but I find the corners quite soft. Will post some photos when I get home. Please let me know then if I have gotten a faulty set or if it's just the nature of the lens.

I have the 24-70 and the 18-200mm (which I used previously with my D90). As I usually will pass my camera to casual friends in parties to take photos of other friends, I wasn't too sure if I want to fit it with the 24-70mm, hence I thought of a reasonably priced wide angle. Budget was about $500 and the closest was a second hand 20mm prime which I understood was FX compatible. I reckon the 18-200mm might work but the quality won't be fantastic on a FX camera, which I may be wrong? Someone can correct me.

[Cowseye]

I reckon the 18-200mm might work but the quality won't be fantastic on a FX camera, which I may be wrong? Someone can correct me.

You will suffer serious vignette throughout the entire zoom range as the image circle of this lens is not design to fill up the entire FX sensor. You can choose to shoot in DX mode but it will nett you less than 5mp In the end.

[blue_kelvinsg]

You will suffer serious vignette throughout the entire zoom range as the image circle of this lens is not design to fill up the entire FX sensor. You can choose to shoot in DX mode but it will nett you less than 5mp In the end.

what about quality wise, as compared to the 20mm prime?

[Blur Shadow]

You can use the 18-200mm on DX crop mode. Only 5MP, but it's casual party pictures. Good enough for me. You decide.

[blue_kelvinsg]

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Shoot with Aperture Priority F4

Realised that the sides are quite soft. Is it usual or is the lens faulty?

[daredevil123]

Shoot with Aperture Priority F4

Realised that the sides are quite soft. Is it usual or is the lens faulty?

It is usual for this lens. It is not a very well performing lens. Try stopping down more, like F8-F13.

[Blur Shadow]

It is usual for this lens. It is not a very well performing lens. Try stopping down more, like F8-F13.

Woah, f/13? Diffraction will set in.

I think f/5.6 - f/8 is about the best compromise you can have.

The 20mm I used was also soft in the corners. This fact is also highlighted in several review sites.

Still, if you intend to use it for causal party shots, it should be fine.

[rain5533]

Just bought my tokina 17mm f3.5 ATX from eBay and hope to receive and doing some review on the D800

[Kit]

Woah, f/13? Diffraction will set in.

I think f/5.6 - f/8 is about the best compromise you can have.

The 20mm I used was also soft in the corners. This fact is also highlighted in several review sites.

Still, if you intend to use it for causal party shots, it should be fine.

The intended depth of field for the photo should be the deciding factor for selecting the aperture. Errors in depth of field will be more obvious than diffraction. Further, from my experience, Nikkor lenses usually have a higher tolerance. The difference between f11 and f16 is negligible (on screens and prints).

[Kit]

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Shoot with Aperture Priority F4

Realised that the sides are quite soft. Is it usual or is the lens faulty?

You are not using the appropriate aperture to get adequate depth of field for the scene. Further, ambient lighting is horrible. That will also affect your perception of sharpness.

[Blur Shadow]

The intended depth of field for the photo should be the deciding factor for selecting the aperture. Errors in depth of field will be more obvious than diffraction. Further, from my experience, Nikkor lenses usually have a higher tolerance. The difference between f11 and f16 is negligible (on screens and prints).

I concur. It is just that I don't see why f/13 is needed or even plausible in a party setting.

In my limited photography experience, I don't see a need to go past f/11 unless doing close up work.

[Kit]

Here are instances where you need to stop down.....

1) Obtain deeper depth of field like you mentioned.
s) Regulate shutter speed for long exposures e.g. shooting light trails.
3) Regulate shutter speed for fill flash on sunny days.

just to name a few.

For events, you'll need to stop down at times for deeper depth of field i.e. when shooting group photos.

[daredevil123]

Woah, f/13? Diffraction will set in.

I think f/5.6 - f/8 is about the best compromise you can have.

The 20mm I used was also soft in the corners. This fact is also highlighted in several review sites.

Still, if you intend to use it for causal party shots, it should be fine.

F13 still ok. Not sure about D800, but even on the D700, diffraction starts to set in after F16.

[Blur Shadow]

Ah. Alright then. As long as TS benefits from this discussion.

[blue_kelvinsg]

Thanks everyone. Really appreciate your contribution. Cheers.